To start with, Rørosmartnan is not just a folk dance and music festival. It is a full out market that takes over the town. There are craft booths and food booths and craft-food booths, guys selling fancy drills, lots of reindeer skins, and endless sausages, waffles, cocoa, and gløgg. Then there are concerts and dances on top of all that.
I arrived on Tuesday on the same train as Tom Sears who kindly pointed me up the hill to the cafe where my host was working that evening. I dragged my suitcase up past the church and met Sylvia. She gave me some cocoa and the directions to her house and off I went. I left my fiddle at the cafe because it was a long walk and I planned on heading out again.
I made it Sylvia's house, figured out which mattress on the floor was designated for me (she had eight people staying there) and headed back into the snowy evening. I walked past the cafe on my way to the hotel, so I picked up my fiddle, just in case. I was on my way to hear SVER play for dancing! I got to the hotel before they started and happened across them sitting in the lobby bar discussing their set list. I sat with the guys for a few minutes while I thawed and they got organized.
Playing for dancing at a hotel is not really very easy. First, they were playing in the bar, so most of the audience was sloshed. Then there was the large pillar in the middle of the dance floor which cuts down on maneuverability. Third is the floor itself was a typical concrete/tile job, so there weren't very many serious folk dancers taking part in the evening's festivities. I stayed content with listening to them play and taking a few photos. I was also exhausted and left when they took their break.
The next day, and every day, the middagsdans (mid-day dance) began at noon in Sangarhuset. Anyone who's been dancing in Norway knows that it's difficult to get a dance partner if you don't know anyone. Dance etiquette in Norway also indicates that once you're one the floor with someone it's polite to keep dancing with that person four or five dances (more if you're really enjoying it) and then suggest that you take a break after the next dance (or if a waltz or polka is being played). Fortunately, I knew two or three people that first day and that was enough to keep me moving most of the time.
Even if you're not dancing, in Røros it's fascinating just to watch the dancers on the floor. People come from all over Norway and Sweden (and we're a few Americans) to dance pols to the best Røros bands; you probably own their CD's - Glåmos spelmannslag, Småviltlaget, Brekken spelmannslag, Dalakopa. Sitting on the sidelines, you can see variations in all parts of the dance - and in four days of dancing there's plenty of variation to watch.
It's hard to choose what the most exciting part of dancing in Røros is. Is it the extremely high level of dance skill that almost everyone has? Dancing primarily pols for four days? Swirling around the dance floor like a school of sardines? The fabulous music? Dancing with friends? Dancing with friends you didn't expect to see? Dancing seven to ten hours a day without getting tired?
For me, the best experiences are those shared with people. That's one of the reasons I think dancing is so fantastic. One evening I was dancing with my friend Bjørn Sverre, who is a fabulous dancer with a lot of bounce in his style. I so admire his dancing that it was thrilling just do dance with him. But why was it so wonderful? One of my greatest joys is trusting the person I'm dancing with enough to give in completely and follow him (and the music) all over the dance floor. Bjørn Sverre commands this kind of respect and has earned my trust. He also leads so well that I find myself learning from him while we dance. There are so many ingredients that go in to making dance-magic!
The museum holds mid-day concerts. I went to 'Olav Mjelva and friends' which was of course excellent. And Bjørn Sverre gave a tour of Norway's bunads (he is fantastic to listen to, as well). I also saw SVER play packed into a tiny cafe with tons of fans; naturally jamming broke out afterward.
One evening I found myself in Kaffistuggu, thanks to Bjørn Sverre and an abundance of time. Kaffistuggu is an institution in Røros. It is a two story cafe with food and beer and lots of small spaces for musicians to play. And that is what happens during Martnan. The line can stretch for hours while people wait for enough space to get in. People packed close together, jam sessions pressing against one another like a car full of balloons. Walking through (if possible) one hears music on all kinds of instruments from accordion to hardingfele, played by everyone from local heroes to Swedens biggest stars.
The evening dances in Sangarhuset were essentially a continuation of the midday dances. On Friday night the evening was allowed to stretch until 4am with the much anticipated nattdans (night dance). Saturday's final dance was held at the high school gym, which has much less atmosphere and twice as much (or more) dance floor. It was strange to dance with so much space between the couples after dancing so close together all week. I guess it was a way to start saying good-bye.
When I got home from the dance that night, I fired up the wood stove. The girls I lived with were planning to have a little party to celebrate surviving Martnan - they had worked the whole week. When they got back we grilled hot dogs on the fire and ate candy and chatted. I got the distinct impression of a pack of cats lounging in the sun as we all sat there, exhausted and happy. One by one we started falling asleep and went to bed.
The real end of my Rørosmartnan story is the race to find a place on the train Sunday morning. Several hundred people line up on the platform waiting for the train to arrive and when it does, it is total chaos trying to get luggage and instruments and people onto the waiting train cars as fast as possible. The girls I was travelling home with and I all managed to get seats on the same car, which was a small miracle. Eleven hours later and very tired, we were home in Rauland.
Showing posts with label trains. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trains. Show all posts
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Farsund
From where we are (in the center of Norway) it takes 9 hours on the bus to get to Farsund where I was going to a music festival (Nordsjøfestivalen) with six of my classmates. We had a good time on the bus, but were really happy to finally get to Farsund. We were less happy when we started walking in the dark with our small orchestra of instruments the 2.5km to the hotel.
We arrived at the hotel and got our room assignments. All the girls (5 of us) in one room, and the boys in another. Fortunately, the hotel was really nice and there was plenty of room for five girls. We could also walk straight out of our rooms to the pier where some of us played music and some swam and some just got a head start on the party.
The second year students and instructors had some concerts. There were also concerts from bands around the North Sea. Really awesome bands. Lots of concerts! My recommendations for listening are Benedicte Maurseth for Norwegian and Fiddler's Bid for Shetland music. Of course, I've already made recommendations for Bruvoll/Halvorsen and RUSK. One of the better concerts was two of my instructors and titled 'songs they don't play on the radio'. Eight concerts in one day - and that was just one day!
I saw a several friends at the festival that I didn't realize would be there. The best surprise was Håvard. Even better was getting to listen to him play Saturday night during the buskspel! The evening parties were pretty fun. Hard to go wrong with friends and music!
The bus trip back was really long, but we made it. The worst was the train; I always feel ill on the train between Kristiansand and Bø. Luckily, we all got dropped off at our houses and no one had to schlep instruments too far. Man, was I happy to take a shower and crawl into my comfortable bed!
We arrived at the hotel and got our room assignments. All the girls (5 of us) in one room, and the boys in another. Fortunately, the hotel was really nice and there was plenty of room for five girls. We could also walk straight out of our rooms to the pier where some of us played music and some swam and some just got a head start on the party.
The second year students and instructors had some concerts. There were also concerts from bands around the North Sea. Really awesome bands. Lots of concerts! My recommendations for listening are Benedicte Maurseth for Norwegian and Fiddler's Bid for Shetland music. Of course, I've already made recommendations for Bruvoll/Halvorsen and RUSK. One of the better concerts was two of my instructors and titled 'songs they don't play on the radio'. Eight concerts in one day - and that was just one day!
I saw a several friends at the festival that I didn't realize would be there. The best surprise was Håvard. Even better was getting to listen to him play Saturday night during the buskspel! The evening parties were pretty fun. Hard to go wrong with friends and music!
The bus trip back was really long, but we made it. The worst was the train; I always feel ill on the train between Kristiansand and Bø. Luckily, we all got dropped off at our houses and no one had to schlep instruments too far. Man, was I happy to take a shower and crawl into my comfortable bed!
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Hamar III
August 15, 2008
Before returning the the Hedmark Museum, I stopped at an electronics store (El-kjøp) to check out cell phones. I'm still not quite ready to make the leap and purchase a phone, but it gave me the opportunity to read about the various plans. I now have a better idea of what it is I want, I think. It seems like I talk on the phone more than I send text messages, and that I talk on the phone a lot. So, it makes the most sense to me to get a slightly more expensive monthly plan with a less expensive rate by the minute. I'd welcome feedback on this topic.
I continued on my way to the Hedmark Museum and arrived just as Bjørn Sverre was pulling into the parking lot. We had lunch in his house, which is on the museum grounds, with another friend of his who was visiting from Oslo. She was also a fiddler and a dancer. She was also a jeweler and super sweet.
After lunch, Bjørn Sverre gave us a tour of the museum. The museum includes buildings from all periods of Hedmarks history from the ruins of the medieval church (ca. 1250) to early twentieth century buildings that aren't quite open yet. Bjørn Sverre had to go in and water the plants, so we got to see the house in the process of being staged.
Then he showed us the highlights from the 17th century exhibit, including a whiskey still, a mechanical thresher, and ornate sleighs. Before potatoes came to the area, many of the smaller households were dependant on the income the women of the families made working with the linen and wool textile industry. After the advent of potatoes, the fields that had been used for linen were used to grow potatoes and many families lost up to 46% procent of their textile based income. At least, that's what I think Bjørn Sverre was telling us.
In the end, he arranged a ride for me back into town. I'd done a lot of walking and was a little worried about coming back to Trysil. I got a ride with a lovely woman who dropped me off at the train station just in time to catch the train to Elverum. Of course, there were a couple guys getting on the train who had at least eight suitcases between them, so we were a little late leaving the station.
I should have had twenty minutes to walk to the bus station in Elverum, instead I had eleven. I hurried and arrived at the bus station at exactly 4:50 when the bus should have been leaving. But it was no where to be found. I went inside and it didn't appear to have arrived. I figured that I had time to risk heading to the pay phone to call Else and let her know I was coming. A half hour later, the bus showed up. Again, student price! I was on my way back to Trysil.
Before returning the the Hedmark Museum, I stopped at an electronics store (El-kjøp) to check out cell phones. I'm still not quite ready to make the leap and purchase a phone, but it gave me the opportunity to read about the various plans. I now have a better idea of what it is I want, I think. It seems like I talk on the phone more than I send text messages, and that I talk on the phone a lot. So, it makes the most sense to me to get a slightly more expensive monthly plan with a less expensive rate by the minute. I'd welcome feedback on this topic.
I continued on my way to the Hedmark Museum and arrived just as Bjørn Sverre was pulling into the parking lot. We had lunch in his house, which is on the museum grounds, with another friend of his who was visiting from Oslo. She was also a fiddler and a dancer. She was also a jeweler and super sweet.
After lunch, Bjørn Sverre gave us a tour of the museum. The museum includes buildings from all periods of Hedmarks history from the ruins of the medieval church (ca. 1250) to early twentieth century buildings that aren't quite open yet. Bjørn Sverre had to go in and water the plants, so we got to see the house in the process of being staged.
Then he showed us the highlights from the 17th century exhibit, including a whiskey still, a mechanical thresher, and ornate sleighs. Before potatoes came to the area, many of the smaller households were dependant on the income the women of the families made working with the linen and wool textile industry. After the advent of potatoes, the fields that had been used for linen were used to grow potatoes and many families lost up to 46% procent of their textile based income. At least, that's what I think Bjørn Sverre was telling us.
In the end, he arranged a ride for me back into town. I'd done a lot of walking and was a little worried about coming back to Trysil. I got a ride with a lovely woman who dropped me off at the train station just in time to catch the train to Elverum. Of course, there were a couple guys getting on the train who had at least eight suitcases between them, so we were a little late leaving the station.
I should have had twenty minutes to walk to the bus station in Elverum, instead I had eleven. I hurried and arrived at the bus station at exactly 4:50 when the bus should have been leaving. But it was no where to be found. I went inside and it didn't appear to have arrived. I figured that I had time to risk heading to the pay phone to call Else and let her know I was coming. A half hour later, the bus showed up. Again, student price! I was on my way back to Trysil.
Trysil I
August 13, 2008
The train from Trondheim was relatively uneventful. It arrived late in Elverum after traveling at about 45km/hr for roughly an hour due to signal problems. When I got off the train, I still had to get to my friend's house in Trysil and I had no clue how to do that. So I called her.
When Else didn't answer her phone, I called her parents. When they didn't answer, I called Tom not stopping to think that it was 7:30 in the morning and there was no way he'd be awake. Then I called my sister and Anna. They didn't answer either, so I called Else again. This time, she answered right away, and gave me directions to the bus station.
The bus station was a reasonable walk from the train station (not my design, but better than Seattle), but I had a half an hour so I wasn't in a hurry. When the bus arrived, the driver very kindly gave me the student discount, even though I don't have a student ID yet. It's a 50% discount in a country where everything is expensive, so I was very appreciative.
After an hour and twenty minutes' ride, Else's mother met me at the bus station in Trysil. She took me to their house, helped me get my laundry in the wash, and instructed me to wear one of Else's rain jackets. She also helped me realize what day it was. I had managed to lose a day in my travelling and ticket purchasing. I figured things would all work out, since I didn't have any hard and fast plans.
Before long we were back in the car to pick up Else from work. From the hospital, where both of Else's parents are nurses and Else works in the kitchen when she is on holiday, Else and I headed to one of the local restaurants. We met a couple of her childhood friends (Anne and Kari) who were also back in town for their summer holiday and enjoyed a pizza and a beverage.
Back at Else's house, I met her aunt and uncle and their son who will be moving into the apartment downstairs while he goes to school next year. Of Else's three siblings, two of the other's were home and the oldest was expected to arrive any time. Inga, the younger sister, was giving up her bed for me, and I gratefully passed out.
The train from Trondheim was relatively uneventful. It arrived late in Elverum after traveling at about 45km/hr for roughly an hour due to signal problems. When I got off the train, I still had to get to my friend's house in Trysil and I had no clue how to do that. So I called her.
When Else didn't answer her phone, I called her parents. When they didn't answer, I called Tom not stopping to think that it was 7:30 in the morning and there was no way he'd be awake. Then I called my sister and Anna. They didn't answer either, so I called Else again. This time, she answered right away, and gave me directions to the bus station.
The bus station was a reasonable walk from the train station (not my design, but better than Seattle), but I had a half an hour so I wasn't in a hurry. When the bus arrived, the driver very kindly gave me the student discount, even though I don't have a student ID yet. It's a 50% discount in a country where everything is expensive, so I was very appreciative.
After an hour and twenty minutes' ride, Else's mother met me at the bus station in Trysil. She took me to their house, helped me get my laundry in the wash, and instructed me to wear one of Else's rain jackets. She also helped me realize what day it was. I had managed to lose a day in my travelling and ticket purchasing. I figured things would all work out, since I didn't have any hard and fast plans.
Before long we were back in the car to pick up Else from work. From the hospital, where both of Else's parents are nurses and Else works in the kitchen when she is on holiday, Else and I headed to one of the local restaurants. We met a couple of her childhood friends (Anne and Kari) who were also back in town for their summer holiday and enjoyed a pizza and a beverage.
Back at Else's house, I met her aunt and uncle and their son who will be moving into the apartment downstairs while he goes to school next year. Of Else's three siblings, two of the other's were home and the oldest was expected to arrive any time. Inga, the younger sister, was giving up her bed for me, and I gratefully passed out.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Farvel til Nord-Norge
August 12, 2008
After breakfast, I packed my bags again, so they would be ready in the afternoon. Before the day was over we had accomplished more than just a large pile of freshly split logs and packed suitcases, however. Anne made skoleboller to go with coffee while splitting logs. I was completely impressed. I played some more fiddle music in the beautiful afternoon weather. After coffee, Johan started pulling off one of the walls of the stabbur - it's next on the repair list.
Since the bus into town left the bus stop a half hour drive away at 6:30, we had to get started on dinner pretty much immediately after afternoon coffee. We headed to the store and bought some additional kjøttkaker, as well as tomatost! Dinner was kjøttkaker with brown sauce, ertestuing, carrots and new potatoes - typical Norwegian food. While Anne made dinner, I made sandwiches to take on my journey. We listened to the Jonssonslinje CD I gave them; It made me think of home.
It was hard to leave Steinviknesset, but I made it in the car. Anne is a fabulous conversationalist and she managed to keep my mind on all of the exciting things that are coming in my future and didn't let me dwell on how much I would miss her and Johan and how much I already miss all of you in Seattle. At least Sonya's coming soon!
The bus ride took almost no time. There was a little excitement when the bus driver started to drive off before I had gotten my suitcase out of the bus, but he only got a few meters. At the Bodø train station I talked to my dad and Tom on the payphone, before I made my way out of the smelly waiting area and onto the uncomfortable train. I did manage to sleep, but I'm sure glad I'm not taking any exams today. I woke up outside of Trondheim, uncertain if I was more excited to get off the train or onto the internet.
After breakfast, I packed my bags again, so they would be ready in the afternoon. Before the day was over we had accomplished more than just a large pile of freshly split logs and packed suitcases, however. Anne made skoleboller to go with coffee while splitting logs. I was completely impressed. I played some more fiddle music in the beautiful afternoon weather. After coffee, Johan started pulling off one of the walls of the stabbur - it's next on the repair list.
Since the bus into town left the bus stop a half hour drive away at 6:30, we had to get started on dinner pretty much immediately after afternoon coffee. We headed to the store and bought some additional kjøttkaker, as well as tomatost! Dinner was kjøttkaker with brown sauce, ertestuing, carrots and new potatoes - typical Norwegian food. While Anne made dinner, I made sandwiches to take on my journey. We listened to the Jonssonslinje CD I gave them; It made me think of home.
It was hard to leave Steinviknesset, but I made it in the car. Anne is a fabulous conversationalist and she managed to keep my mind on all of the exciting things that are coming in my future and didn't let me dwell on how much I would miss her and Johan and how much I already miss all of you in Seattle. At least Sonya's coming soon!
The bus ride took almost no time. There was a little excitement when the bus driver started to drive off before I had gotten my suitcase out of the bus, but he only got a few meters. At the Bodø train station I talked to my dad and Tom on the payphone, before I made my way out of the smelly waiting area and onto the uncomfortable train. I did manage to sleep, but I'm sure glad I'm not taking any exams today. I woke up outside of Trondheim, uncertain if I was more excited to get off the train or onto the internet.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Trondheim
A long time ago, I came to Norway with my mother and sister. We had a layover in the Trondheim train station and we wound up eating some yogurt. Actually, I wound up wearing it. So, it always seems like I should buy some when I'm in the Trondheim train station.
The train left a little late because we had to wait for another late train from Oslo. I was backwards again, but this time the seat was a 'hvilestol' or resting chair. It reclined, had a foot rest, and came with an overnight pack. The goodies included earplugs, a smallish fleece-type blanket, a sleep mask, and an inflatable travel pillow! I am totally impressed with that travel pillow. It did take a fair amount of maneuvering to get all of my luggage to fit in the space available, but I did it.
Fortunately, the Swedish girls sitting across from and behind me didn't feel the need to sing all night long, and most of us were asleep just outside of Trondheim. I woke up once or twice to adjust my pillows, but for the most part I slept pretty well. And I woke up to the gorgeous sunshine of Nordland in the summer. There is no light like this light; it lifts even the lowest spirits.
The train left a little late because we had to wait for another late train from Oslo. I was backwards again, but this time the seat was a 'hvilestol' or resting chair. It reclined, had a foot rest, and came with an overnight pack. The goodies included earplugs, a smallish fleece-type blanket, a sleep mask, and an inflatable travel pillow! I am totally impressed with that travel pillow. It did take a fair amount of maneuvering to get all of my luggage to fit in the space available, but I did it.
Fortunately, the Swedish girls sitting across from and behind me didn't feel the need to sing all night long, and most of us were asleep just outside of Trondheim. I woke up once or twice to adjust my pillows, but for the most part I slept pretty well. And I woke up to the gorgeous sunshine of Nordland in the summer. There is no light like this light; it lifts even the lowest spirits.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Fra Bø til Glada Hudik!
Barnival! That is how I rounded out my Telemark experience. I sat and worked on the Vinterdansen 09 budget while listening to the children's carnival below. Some of them were really pretty talented. Others were... children.
Then I was off again. I took the afternoon train from Bø to Oslo, then the night train to Stockholm and arrived at 11am in Hudiksvall, just before Tom and Elaine got to the train station.
This time on the night train I was not so lucky to have a cabin to myself. Instead, I shared it with 3 other women. We didn't have to change trains mid-ride, but it did seem like it stopped every half hour, and not with a gentle deceleration, but with crash and grind that makes me think someone should check the brakes.
Sitting in the not-quite-bejeweled Stockholm C I devoured a packet of dried fruit and nuts like a large squirrel. Travel tip: don't get hungry on Sundays. Also, if you are fortunate enough to read the language of the country you are travelling in, read the warning labels on the packages. The one on the fruit and nuts package said something along the lines of 'remember, it's easy for children to get nuts stuck in their noses.' How about that!
The remainder of the trip to Hudiksvall was uneventful and I was very happy to see Tom and Elaine pull up at the train station. We signed up for some computer time (which I'm using now) at the library, went to the bank, and had lunch at a Pan Asian buffet. I don't think I ate that much the entire time I was in Bø! Ethnic food in Scandinavian has come a long way since the last time I had Thai food in Stavanger with Sonya.
Then I was off again. I took the afternoon train from Bø to Oslo, then the night train to Stockholm and arrived at 11am in Hudiksvall, just before Tom and Elaine got to the train station.
This time on the night train I was not so lucky to have a cabin to myself. Instead, I shared it with 3 other women. We didn't have to change trains mid-ride, but it did seem like it stopped every half hour, and not with a gentle deceleration, but with crash and grind that makes me think someone should check the brakes.
Sitting in the not-quite-bejeweled Stockholm C I devoured a packet of dried fruit and nuts like a large squirrel. Travel tip: don't get hungry on Sundays. Also, if you are fortunate enough to read the language of the country you are travelling in, read the warning labels on the packages. The one on the fruit and nuts package said something along the lines of 'remember, it's easy for children to get nuts stuck in their noses.' How about that!
The remainder of the trip to Hudiksvall was uneventful and I was very happy to see Tom and Elaine pull up at the train station. We signed up for some computer time (which I'm using now) at the library, went to the bank, and had lunch at a Pan Asian buffet. I don't think I ate that much the entire time I was in Bø! Ethnic food in Scandinavian has come a long way since the last time I had Thai food in Stavanger with Sonya.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
The Rest of the Journey
Before I forget it all, I should probably make some notes about what happened after my last (first?) post. For starters, the Stockholm Central Station really is much nicer than the tiny little corner of it I crashed into at first. Although, if I hadn't been sitting there, I wouldn't have seen the three guys wandering around with their accordions hanging off their backs. :)
Imagine my excitement when the train pulled in and I hauled my two suitcases, fiddle, and backpack up the two steps and down to the far end of the narrow hallway to my cabin that had not three, but six beds! Not to worry, I didn't wind up getting any cabinmates. I slept as well as I usually do on a sleeper train. That is, everytime the train stops, I wake up. Fortunately it didn't stop very often. Unfortunately, it stopped at about 7:30 am outside of Fredrikstad. Due to some electrical trouble on the tracks, we had to change trains (remember all of my luggage?) in the middle of nowhere and take a different route in to Oslo. If I thought it was fun getting all of those bags up two stairs and down a hall, it was downright peachy dropping them off the side of the train, dragging them through the gravel, and hoisting them back up onto the new train. After all of that, we were only an hour late into Oslo. Not so bad.
At the Oslo Central Station, I picked up my tickets for the next leg of travel and headed for the Forex exchange office. Travel tip: if you are carrying traveller's checks, don't exchange them at Forex. Do it at a bank! Then I found some food and coffee. Food was to be a spinach and feta calzone. Mostly notable because it was really a spinach and feta curry calzone. I think the coffee was pretty good, but who knows after the curry and feta and a solid 40 hours of travelling!
The journey to Bø i Telemark was mostly uneventful. My suitcase fel
l out of the luggage rack on one big turn. Oh well. I got excellent directions at the tourist information office when I got off the train and took the bicycle path to the motel.It turns out the motel is the student housing during the school year - I can only hope that my room is this comfortable! Of course, I was assigned to the third floor (luggage!). I can't remember when a shower felt so good. I thought about taking a nap, but I still had things to do!
Ultimate travel tip: don't bring so much luggage!
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Stockholm C
Sleep deprived and coated with travel grime I have arrived safely at the midway point of my big trip. The Stockholm Central Station is less grand than I would have expected, but maybe I'm just too tired to drag my suitcase train, fiddles and other accessories far enough to enjoy the grandeur lurking around the corner. Oh well, that will have to wait for the way back.
It really hasn't sunk in yet that I'll be here for a year. I'm still focused on the 10+2 hour train rides left to go. My advice for next time is: allow myself 2 weeks before leaving to get organized and go for the shorter connections. By the time I get to Bø, I will have spent at least 9 hours waiting for the next mode of transportation to arrive. And that doesn't count waiting for the first plane.
With all that waiting fresh in my mind, I'm glad I brought my computer. It's heavy though, so with tighter layovers, I'd leave it behind or pack it in a suitcase next time. Copenhagen definitely wins the most comfortable place to wait (plus they had the fastest wireless connection).
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