On Monday night there was a dance at the Boda Gammalgård. The music was scheduled to be excellent. Many of the Americans were going. My list of reasons for not going was long. I'm running short on cash, my feet hurt, I'm tired, I've been to Boda, and most importantly, I love to sit by the fire.
It would have been easy in spite of that list to talk me into going to Boda if I'd been able to get cash from the bank in Furudal. I'm glad that I didn't and no one tried real hard to drag me away from the mosquito infested paradise by the lake. With all of the Americans in Boda except for me and Tom, I arrived to a campfire of friendly faces speaking Swedish, laughing and talking and relaxing like old friends do at the end of a long hard day.
The scenery is breathtaking. A still lake, clouds strafing the sky which varies from light blue to fuschia in the Swedish sunset separated by pristine forests. At our feet was the perfect fire, tended religiously by Yngve and Busse, it was always just right - never too hot or too cold for grilling and producing enough smoke to keep the mosquitoes to a tolerable level.
After a half hour of Swedish immersion, the natives got restless and demanded some music. I was happy to oblige. After I played a Swedish tune they asked for something Norwegian. Well, I don't need to be asked twice. I was joined by Pär on fiddle and Lennert on accordion.
I'm not sure it's possible to describe how wonderful it is to sit at the fire with friends and sing, play, and eat in the norther twilight, but I can say it's good for the soul. I am glad I didn't go to Boda last night, not because of the money, but why would anyone want to leave paradise? As Tom said on the way back, those are the best memories.
Of course, I never want to go to sleep after an evening like that, so I was happy to find some others sitting in the common area outside my door. I joined them for some conversation about dancing and a couple cookies before turning in for the night. It was a perfect evening.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
People
There are so many lovely Swedish people here! And, perhaps obviously, they are all excellent dancers. I have to make a special mention for our hustomter - Bo and Siv. They are simply delightful people. They are kind and generous. They go out of their way to make everyone feel welcome. They have helped us find the Internet connection. And they do everything with a smile, often without being asked.
Interestingly, none of the märke dancers are Swedish. One couple is from Italy and the rest of us are Americans. So much English! Of course, there are Swedes who will be testing for medals, just none at this camp. Most of the Americans here I have met before, but it's nice to get to know them better.
Interestingly, none of the märke dancers are Swedish. One couple is from Italy and the rest of us are Americans. So much English! Of course, there are Swedes who will be testing for medals, just none at this camp. Most of the Americans here I have met before, but it's nice to get to know them better.
Training
During the day (all day from 9am to 9pm) we practice dances. That sounds like a lot of dancing and it certainly can be. If you are dancing for a medal (which is what I am doing), you wait for your dance to be called then you move to the circle at the front of the hall. You are separated from the rest of the dancers by a rope and they can practice on the remaining two thirds of the floor. Margarete puts on the music and then she and Leif watch. When you have finished, they elegantly guide you towards improvements you can make and put on more music. After two or three dances, your turn is over and they call the next dance up to the front. It's possible to spend a lot of time thinking about your dances and only twenty minutes at a time actually dancing.
Diplom is different. The diplom dancers all have the same dances, so they move into the front ring by name. Everyone can practice all of the time to all of the dances whether they are receiving the attention of Leif and Margarete or not. The floor and the music are there. If you are dancing both märke (for a medal) and diplom (for a certificate) you will be dancing all of the time. Of course, we do have 3 hour lunch breaks at 3pm every day; and a coffee break during each of the morning classes so it's not all work, but it does seem gruelling to do both.
My dances are going well. I knew there was work to do and I think we're doing it. I am dancing Bingsjö polska, Polska och Bakmes från Lillhärdal, and Enbens (that means one-legged, for the man of course) Boda. When Tom and I dance Bingsjö it's like the Earth has stopped rotating we are just continuing to turn. It's smooth and fun. The Lillhärdal will get there this afternoon and the Boda by tomorrow. Come Saturday, the world will stop and it will just be me and Tom turning.
Diplom is different. The diplom dancers all have the same dances, so they move into the front ring by name. Everyone can practice all of the time to all of the dances whether they are receiving the attention of Leif and Margarete or not. The floor and the music are there. If you are dancing both märke (for a medal) and diplom (for a certificate) you will be dancing all of the time. Of course, we do have 3 hour lunch breaks at 3pm every day; and a coffee break during each of the morning classes so it's not all work, but it does seem gruelling to do both.
My dances are going well. I knew there was work to do and I think we're doing it. I am dancing Bingsjö polska, Polska och Bakmes från Lillhärdal, and Enbens (that means one-legged, for the man of course) Boda. When Tom and I dance Bingsjö it's like the Earth has stopped rotating we are just continuing to turn. It's smooth and fun. The Lillhärdal will get there this afternoon and the Boda by tomorrow. Come Saturday, the world will stop and it will just be me and Tom turning.
Furudals bruk
We found our rooms. They are delightful. Youth hostel like, but leaning toward the hotel end of things. Linens are provided, the beds are cushy (even for a princess like me), and we all have our own bathrooms. I'll repeat. I have my own bathroom and shower. It's like heaven.
The main kitchen is in the building next to the one Elaine and I are staying in, although all three of the 'hostel' buildings have some kind of kitchen facility. We got a good spot in the refrigerator and the kitchen has been running smoothly, considering how many people are using it.
There are several other buildings here, the dance hall, the manor house, a cafe, some cottages, and several houses of various sizes that belong to private individuals. The dance hall is also owned by a different person than the lodging. It is charming. The floor is beautiful, although the humidity and too many weddings seem to be getting to it. We also spend a fair amount of time at the lake, grilling hot dogs and getting eaten by mosquitoes. I'm pleased to report that I am less allergic to Swedish mosquitoes than their American cousins. They bite through everything.
The main kitchen is in the building next to the one Elaine and I are staying in, although all three of the 'hostel' buildings have some kind of kitchen facility. We got a good spot in the refrigerator and the kitchen has been running smoothly, considering how many people are using it.
There are several other buildings here, the dance hall, the manor house, a cafe, some cottages, and several houses of various sizes that belong to private individuals. The dance hall is also owned by a different person than the lodging. It is charming. The floor is beautiful, although the humidity and too many weddings seem to be getting to it. We also spend a fair amount of time at the lake, grilling hot dogs and getting eaten by mosquitoes. I'm pleased to report that I am less allergic to Swedish mosquitoes than their American cousins. They bite through everything.
På tur til Furudal
There isn't really much to say about the way to Furudal. Once we made it out of the house, and took some pictures (yes, you'll see them later), we were on the road at about 10:30. We stopped for a a high class meal at the big grocery store in Bollnäs and arrived in picturesque Furudal right on time at 1:30.
I was sad to leave Sundsättersvägen in Njutånger; something tells me I'll be back. I'd like to visit sometime with no plans for a while. Just see what's in the newspaper and go where the wind blows. Swimming and fishing and staying up late. Vacation without a schedule. It sounds great!
I was sad to leave Sundsättersvägen in Njutånger; something tells me I'll be back. I'd like to visit sometime with no plans for a while. Just see what's in the newspaper and go where the wind blows. Swimming and fishing and staying up late. Vacation without a schedule. It sounds great!
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Updates
There will be more soon - tomorrow perhaps. We've made it to Furudal and I'll be writing about it, but first I have to recharge my battery.
Sorry for the delay!
Sorry for the delay!
Sult og mat
As we pulled into the driveway, Tom announced that he would be going to the graveyard for a while and he would be back to cook the meatballs. He handed me the potatoes we had purchased on the way home and asked if I would clean and boil them so they would be ready.
By the time he returned, the potatoes were cooked, I had practiced a little, and Elaine was just about finished mending his costume shirt. In half an hour (which was 23:30) we had potatoes, meatballs, and a delicious brown sauce. Half an hour after that, there was nothing left and we were working on the salad greens from Barbro and Eric.
Somewhere in there Karlyn called from Seattle. It was great to get an update from her; we got news about the weather, Tom's garden, and the current Skandia classes. Perhaps next time, she'll be with us! I hope so. I miss you already, Karlyn.
By the time he returned, the potatoes were cooked, I had practiced a little, and Elaine was just about finished mending his costume shirt. In half an hour (which was 23:30) we had potatoes, meatballs, and a delicious brown sauce. Half an hour after that, there was nothing left and we were working on the salad greens from Barbro and Eric.
Somewhere in there Karlyn called from Seattle. It was great to get an update from her; we got news about the weather, Tom's garden, and the current Skandia classes. Perhaps next time, she'll be with us! I hope so. I miss you already, Karlyn.
Forsa Sightseeing
Forsa is Tom's ancestral homeland. Today we did our best to see it all. After, of course, the obligatory stops at the library, the bank, the insurance company, and the public restrooms. We also made it to the train station, but that involves a long story I don't have time to tell.
Shortly after 13:30 we arrived at Gerd and Gunborg's picturesque home a short drive outside of Hudsiksvall. Gerd was wearing white capri pants and a great linen blouse with princess sleeves in Ingrid teal. The blouse set off her eyes and made her seem even happier to see Tom. Gunborg, recovering from pneumonia, introduced herself and surprised us all by announcing that she would join us for the first stop on our tour.
We were off to Trogstasätter'n. If I recall correctly, Gerd's mother was born there and her cousin, Tonya (who is also Tom's cousin), now owns the house and will move there permanently when she retires, hopefully next year. In the meantime, she and her husband spend the vacations working on restoring the buildings, which Tom thinks are about 300 years old, but no one is exactly sure about. From the looks of things, the are doing an excellent job restoring things.
The property sits next to the lake and out the back windows you can see it through the trees. From the yard between the barn and the house, you look out across beautiful green fields, with Forsa Tre, the lumber yard, off to the left. It was here that we sat for coffee and cakes. Tom's belated birthday party. Much pleasant conversation later, Gerd mentioned to Tonya that she had promised Tom a look inside the house and in we went. I took a lot of pictures, so I think you'll have to wait for those to see the treasures we found within. We also squeezed in a call to Gerd's son Joakim; we all hope that he and Tom will find a way to work in a visit while Tom's in Sweden. They are both busy men this summer.
From Trogstasätter'n we went to the Forsa church leaving Gunborg to rest in Tonya's company. At the angle we approached the church, it was difficult to tell how big it really was. Not usually being much interested in churches, the idea of stopping at the church hadn't really excited me at first, but this was Gerd's day and it was her church, so we went. It was beautiful inside. The walls were two meters thick. The pipe organ at the back, mostly only played on Christmas eve, is impressive in its stature and detail. We spent an hour looking at the gravestones of Tom's ancestors. Gerd guided us through the cemetary and the family history, connected the names on the stones to each other and to Tom. By this time, we were getting hungry.
Back at the car, Tom found some cheese sandwhiches he had brought along. He ate most of them and passed one back to me. I greedily accepted. We were on our way to Ystadgården (I think). Upon arriving, Gerd discovered that the restaurant she had hoped to take us to for the famous Forsa ostekake (a kind of cheesecake not related to the sort from New York), had closed twenty minutes earlier.
Gerd, possesing the family charm which Tom so often benefits from, managed to get us four servings of Forsa ostkake and coffee for two - me and her. This cheese cake is made, if I understand correctly, by cooking the whey out of the cheese and then pouring it into a mold. It is served with a light lingon syrup and it squeaks on your teeth. It was tasty, but I was too hungry to truly appreciate it and couldn't finish my portion. The coffee, however, was the best coffee I've had since leaving Seattle.
Not only did they open the restaurant for us, they let us poke around in the gift shop for a solid twenty minutes. Then there was a photoshoot in the courtyard. Then the fifteen minute goodbye. And then we were on our way to Bystroms.
This stop was just going to be a quick look around. The farm belongs to the family of a woman who works at the Hudiksvall tourist bureau who had been particularly helpful to both Tom and Elaine. Since Gerd knows everyone and her name had come up, the lady from the tourist bureau had told Tom to have Gerd show him where the farm was.
We pulled up to Bystroms and there was a man getting off a tractor; this was not going to be a short stop. Steffan said we could most certainly look around at the buildings and take pictures, so, like the obedient tourists we had become, we three Americans headed into the courtyard surrounded by several typical Swedish farm buildings in their oh-so-practical arrangement. A few minutes later, Steffan returned wearing clean pants and carrying the key to the big house. Gerd had talked him into giving us a tour. Again the pictures will come later.
At Bystroms there had been a younger man, whom we think was also named Steffan and who mentioned that he lived up the road next to our dancing friends Barbro and Eric. He suggested that we could take a look at his house if we went up that way. So, we went. Why not, right?
Barbro and Eric were outside as we drove past and, since Elaine had some gifts for them, we stopped to say hello. This short stop turned into a garden tour; Eric's garden is really quite remarkable. We ate strawberries and red and black currants; both Tom and Gerd got a bag of greens to take home. All of us had the pleasure of meeting Säbb, the very friendly dog. At 20:30 we climbed back in the car and headed back toward Gerd's house.
We took Gerd home and said our goodbyes. I won't be seeing her again, so we all got out of the car to exchange hugs. Perhaps I'll see her next summer in Sweden.
On the ride home there were some attempts made to plan tomorrow morning, but at the forefront of at least two minds was dinner. Tom and I had been hungry for a good five hours and the cakes had only distracted us from that fact. Two bowls of soup is a substantial breakfast, but it won't hold me all day under any normal circumstances.
Shortly after 13:30 we arrived at Gerd and Gunborg's picturesque home a short drive outside of Hudsiksvall. Gerd was wearing white capri pants and a great linen blouse with princess sleeves in Ingrid teal. The blouse set off her eyes and made her seem even happier to see Tom. Gunborg, recovering from pneumonia, introduced herself and surprised us all by announcing that she would join us for the first stop on our tour.
We were off to Trogstasätter'n. If I recall correctly, Gerd's mother was born there and her cousin, Tonya (who is also Tom's cousin), now owns the house and will move there permanently when she retires, hopefully next year. In the meantime, she and her husband spend the vacations working on restoring the buildings, which Tom thinks are about 300 years old, but no one is exactly sure about. From the looks of things, the are doing an excellent job restoring things.
The property sits next to the lake and out the back windows you can see it through the trees. From the yard between the barn and the house, you look out across beautiful green fields, with Forsa Tre, the lumber yard, off to the left. It was here that we sat for coffee and cakes. Tom's belated birthday party. Much pleasant conversation later, Gerd mentioned to Tonya that she had promised Tom a look inside the house and in we went. I took a lot of pictures, so I think you'll have to wait for those to see the treasures we found within. We also squeezed in a call to Gerd's son Joakim; we all hope that he and Tom will find a way to work in a visit while Tom's in Sweden. They are both busy men this summer.
From Trogstasätter'n we went to the Forsa church leaving Gunborg to rest in Tonya's company. At the angle we approached the church, it was difficult to tell how big it really was. Not usually being much interested in churches, the idea of stopping at the church hadn't really excited me at first, but this was Gerd's day and it was her church, so we went. It was beautiful inside. The walls were two meters thick. The pipe organ at the back, mostly only played on Christmas eve, is impressive in its stature and detail. We spent an hour looking at the gravestones of Tom's ancestors. Gerd guided us through the cemetary and the family history, connected the names on the stones to each other and to Tom. By this time, we were getting hungry.
Back at the car, Tom found some cheese sandwhiches he had brought along. He ate most of them and passed one back to me. I greedily accepted. We were on our way to Ystadgården (I think). Upon arriving, Gerd discovered that the restaurant she had hoped to take us to for the famous Forsa ostekake (a kind of cheesecake not related to the sort from New York), had closed twenty minutes earlier.
Gerd, possesing the family charm which Tom so often benefits from, managed to get us four servings of Forsa ostkake and coffee for two - me and her. This cheese cake is made, if I understand correctly, by cooking the whey out of the cheese and then pouring it into a mold. It is served with a light lingon syrup and it squeaks on your teeth. It was tasty, but I was too hungry to truly appreciate it and couldn't finish my portion. The coffee, however, was the best coffee I've had since leaving Seattle.
Not only did they open the restaurant for us, they let us poke around in the gift shop for a solid twenty minutes. Then there was a photoshoot in the courtyard. Then the fifteen minute goodbye. And then we were on our way to Bystroms.
This stop was just going to be a quick look around. The farm belongs to the family of a woman who works at the Hudiksvall tourist bureau who had been particularly helpful to both Tom and Elaine. Since Gerd knows everyone and her name had come up, the lady from the tourist bureau had told Tom to have Gerd show him where the farm was.
We pulled up to Bystroms and there was a man getting off a tractor; this was not going to be a short stop. Steffan said we could most certainly look around at the buildings and take pictures, so, like the obedient tourists we had become, we three Americans headed into the courtyard surrounded by several typical Swedish farm buildings in their oh-so-practical arrangement. A few minutes later, Steffan returned wearing clean pants and carrying the key to the big house. Gerd had talked him into giving us a tour. Again the pictures will come later.
At Bystroms there had been a younger man, whom we think was also named Steffan and who mentioned that he lived up the road next to our dancing friends Barbro and Eric. He suggested that we could take a look at his house if we went up that way. So, we went. Why not, right?
Barbro and Eric were outside as we drove past and, since Elaine had some gifts for them, we stopped to say hello. This short stop turned into a garden tour; Eric's garden is really quite remarkable. We ate strawberries and red and black currants; both Tom and Gerd got a bag of greens to take home. All of us had the pleasure of meeting Säbb, the very friendly dog. At 20:30 we climbed back in the car and headed back toward Gerd's house.
We took Gerd home and said our goodbyes. I won't be seeing her again, so we all got out of the car to exchange hugs. Perhaps I'll see her next summer in Sweden.
On the ride home there were some attempts made to plan tomorrow morning, but at the forefront of at least two minds was dinner. Tom and I had been hungry for a good five hours and the cakes had only distracted us from that fact. Two bowls of soup is a substantial breakfast, but it won't hold me all day under any normal circumstances.
Högsgården
The practice hall for the local dance group is called Högsgården and is located in Hög (amazing how these things work). It has a beautiful dance floor and the four couples that showed up to help out Tom and Elaine were gracious hosts. After they worked hard for a solid hour and a half, they stopped for coffee (and cake). It turns out that they will be staying at the same place we will at uppdansning, so that will be nice.
After coffee, they asked if I would like to show my dances, which I did. I was so nervous and hungry since I hadn't eaten in a good long time that I really had to focus, even on Bingsjö polska (the dance I know the best of the three I'm doing). They gave me good tips and flattering compliments. In all, I feel much better about the whole idea of this competition now that I'm in Sweden. I greatly appreciate the advice I got and am thankful that I still have several days of practice in Furudal.
After coffee, they asked if I would like to show my dances, which I did. I was so nervous and hungry since I hadn't eaten in a good long time that I really had to focus, even on Bingsjö polska (the dance I know the best of the three I'm doing). They gave me good tips and flattering compliments. In all, I feel much better about the whole idea of this competition now that I'm in Sweden. I greatly appreciate the advice I got and am thankful that I still have several days of practice in Furudal.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Hudiksvall III
Today we made our obligatory tour of downtown Hudiksvall (including stops at the library and the bank), but not before we went swimming in a lake near Tom's house. Okay, so Tom and I went swimming and Elaine watched us safely from the shore. I completely understand not wanting to have sand in uncomfortable places all day long, but it was delicious to jump into the icy water. I got out after about a minute of feeling like I was going to freeze, a nice feeling after all of the heat I have endured lately. I realized that I should stay in longer since the wind was blowing and the water wasn't that cold once you got used to it.
Back on land, I took a sort of miserable but upright shower and got dressed again then gleefully applied sunscreen having met my quota for vitamin D intake. I don't think I mention earlier, before I left Seattle I had some blood work done and unsurprisingly I have a very low level of vitamin D. Nicole (my rheumatologist) is recommending that I take some fairly considerable doses of supplements, but until I get a regular supply, it's ok for me to fulfill my requirements with 15-20 minutes of unprotected sunshine. Without burning, of course.
After swimming and our downtown errands, we just barely had time to get to a restaurant for the daily lunch special. Tom had a plan. Elaine and I were both clearly skeptical when we parked in a car dealership, but Tom knew what he was doing. We were too late for the special, but we had pan fried flounder and mashed potatoes with salad and coffee. Yum! They had really tasty little cookies, too - lots of butter.
Then we headed to an auction, Tom wanted to see if he could pick up some linen, but wound up with a bench instead. We didn't have time to stick around for the linen to come up for bid because we needed to get out to Trogstavallen. There we walked around for a bit, looked at several charming old buildings, one of which was in Tom's mothers family and got dinner. Tom and Elaine got dinner, I didn't need any more food just then, especially not Kolbollar which is bits of pork fried in pork fat and then pancake batter thrown in to hold the whole mess together.
We also met Tom's aunt, Gerd. She is a really charming woman. We spoke Norwegian as she had spent some time in Norway at folkehøgskole. It was easy to tell that she and Tom enjoy each others' company.
As I am writing these Tom and Elaine are practicing their dances with the local dance group and I am hoping that I get an opportunity to run through my dances. As far as these dancers go, they are lovely all around. All of them seem to be good dancers and are eager to help Tom and Elaine.
Back on land, I took a sort of miserable but upright shower and got dressed again then gleefully applied sunscreen having met my quota for vitamin D intake. I don't think I mention earlier, before I left Seattle I had some blood work done and unsurprisingly I have a very low level of vitamin D. Nicole (my rheumatologist) is recommending that I take some fairly considerable doses of supplements, but until I get a regular supply, it's ok for me to fulfill my requirements with 15-20 minutes of unprotected sunshine. Without burning, of course.
After swimming and our downtown errands, we just barely had time to get to a restaurant for the daily lunch special. Tom had a plan. Elaine and I were both clearly skeptical when we parked in a car dealership, but Tom knew what he was doing. We were too late for the special, but we had pan fried flounder and mashed potatoes with salad and coffee. Yum! They had really tasty little cookies, too - lots of butter.
Then we headed to an auction, Tom wanted to see if he could pick up some linen, but wound up with a bench instead. We didn't have time to stick around for the linen to come up for bid because we needed to get out to Trogstavallen. There we walked around for a bit, looked at several charming old buildings, one of which was in Tom's mothers family and got dinner. Tom and Elaine got dinner, I didn't need any more food just then, especially not Kolbollar which is bits of pork fried in pork fat and then pancake batter thrown in to hold the whole mess together.
We also met Tom's aunt, Gerd. She is a really charming woman. We spoke Norwegian as she had spent some time in Norway at folkehøgskole. It was easy to tell that she and Tom enjoy each others' company.
As I am writing these Tom and Elaine are practicing their dances with the local dance group and I am hoping that I get an opportunity to run through my dances. As far as these dancers go, they are lovely all around. All of them seem to be good dancers and are eager to help Tom and Elaine.
Hörlick grottorna
When I think of a grotto, I think of a heavily vegetated cavern behind a tropical waterfall, probably with a deep clear pool at the bottom.
We drove out to the beach at a nature reserve called Hornslandet to go for a walk. We drove all the way to the area at the tip of the peninsula called Hörlick, looked out to the sea, checked out the old church, took a bunch of photos, ate our cheese sandwiches and decided we still needed a real walk in the woods. We hadn't driven out into the Swedish countryside for 45 minutes just to head back without any real exercise.
After a brief false start we found a good trail head and thought we could take the 7km walk if we moved quickly and possibly stop at the caves (grottorna in Swedish). Well, we moved awfully quickly and found ourselves at the caves after less than ten minutes in the woods. We weren't really sure what to expect, so we started up the small rocks and chatted amongst ourselves as they got larger. Tom darted ahead to see if there was anything we should continue climbing to see (we'd hit some pretty big rocks). "I found a ladder down to a cavern!" came the cry.
He poked around long enough for Elaine to pull out her map and convince herself and me that if we continued across the rocks we would come to the other path and could cut back. That seemed like a better option to both of us so, trusting Elaine, I headed after her with only a moment's hesitation. By the time we caught up to Tom, the rocks were clearly boulders and we couldn't really see where the ended. We headed off in the same trajectory toward the trees on the other side with Tom leading the way, Elaine stepping carefully in the middle, and me bringing up the rear taking photographs.
At some point, Tom disappeared into the trees. We hoped he was looking for the path. Elaine and I continued toward the vicinity where he had disappeared. Eventually he called back that he had indeed found the path and could see Elaine. He guided her in to him with his voice and some banging of smaller rocks together.
I had fallen behind due to my photography, so it took me a while longer to reach the trees. Elaine advised me to head to my left and downhill and I would find the path. I made a few attempts, but wound up approximately where I thought they had disappeared (I hadn't really been paying attention). I was one rock away from the path, but I just couldn't make it to either of my options. Both of them were a little too vegetated and a little too far away for me to trust on a downward lunge. Tom came out and rescued me; with a steady hand on the other side I had no trouble making it across the minuscule abyss. (I should have taken a picture of that!)
We were practically running back down the trail out of the woods, when a little voice said 'maybe we should stop and look around.' It was really beautiful out there. I'm so glad we went. From the sea (always my favorite), to our adventure across the stones. Elaine said it reminded her of a Swedish movie she saw many years ago - The Apple Tree War (I think).
Elaine and I got some driving practice in on the way home, but Tom didn't get a nap. As the experienced driver, he still needs to be alert to assist us with any sudden changes. We stopped for gas and $100 later we were finally on our last leg of the day.
At 10:45 we pulled into Tom's driveway, took down our laundry, and Tom started the soup. I had a cup of hot chocolate before the soup was ready, made with cubes of chocolate and whole milk on the stove; it really hit the spot. Once all our phone calls were made we tucked ourselves into bed at about 1:30 and boy did I sleep well!
We drove out to the beach at a nature reserve called Hornslandet to go for a walk. We drove all the way to the area at the tip of the peninsula called Hörlick, looked out to the sea, checked out the old church, took a bunch of photos, ate our cheese sandwiches and decided we still needed a real walk in the woods. We hadn't driven out into the Swedish countryside for 45 minutes just to head back without any real exercise.
After a brief false start we found a good trail head and thought we could take the 7km walk if we moved quickly and possibly stop at the caves (grottorna in Swedish). Well, we moved awfully quickly and found ourselves at the caves after less than ten minutes in the woods. We weren't really sure what to expect, so we started up the small rocks and chatted amongst ourselves as they got larger. Tom darted ahead to see if there was anything we should continue climbing to see (we'd hit some pretty big rocks). "I found a ladder down to a cavern!" came the cry.
He poked around long enough for Elaine to pull out her map and convince herself and me that if we continued across the rocks we would come to the other path and could cut back. That seemed like a better option to both of us so, trusting Elaine, I headed after her with only a moment's hesitation. By the time we caught up to Tom, the rocks were clearly boulders and we couldn't really see where the ended. We headed off in the same trajectory toward the trees on the other side with Tom leading the way, Elaine stepping carefully in the middle, and me bringing up the rear taking photographs.
At some point, Tom disappeared into the trees. We hoped he was looking for the path. Elaine and I continued toward the vicinity where he had disappeared. Eventually he called back that he had indeed found the path and could see Elaine. He guided her in to him with his voice and some banging of smaller rocks together.
I had fallen behind due to my photography, so it took me a while longer to reach the trees. Elaine advised me to head to my left and downhill and I would find the path. I made a few attempts, but wound up approximately where I thought they had disappeared (I hadn't really been paying attention). I was one rock away from the path, but I just couldn't make it to either of my options. Both of them were a little too vegetated and a little too far away for me to trust on a downward lunge. Tom came out and rescued me; with a steady hand on the other side I had no trouble making it across the minuscule abyss. (I should have taken a picture of that!)
We were practically running back down the trail out of the woods, when a little voice said 'maybe we should stop and look around.' It was really beautiful out there. I'm so glad we went. From the sea (always my favorite), to our adventure across the stones. Elaine said it reminded her of a Swedish movie she saw many years ago - The Apple Tree War (I think).
Elaine and I got some driving practice in on the way home, but Tom didn't get a nap. As the experienced driver, he still needs to be alert to assist us with any sudden changes. We stopped for gas and $100 later we were finally on our last leg of the day.
At 10:45 we pulled into Tom's driveway, took down our laundry, and Tom started the soup. I had a cup of hot chocolate before the soup was ready, made with cubes of chocolate and whole milk on the stove; it really hit the spot. Once all our phone calls were made we tucked ourselves into bed at about 1:30 and boy did I sleep well!
Hudiksvall II
On the first evening in Hudiksvall Tom took Elaine and me fishing. We piled into the car with and old pole Tom had found and a six (!) worms he dug out of the garden. With the backdrop of an absolutely beautiful fluorescent Hälsingland sunset Tom caught a couple small fish. By small, I mean little. Tiny. 4 inches maximum. One we threw back, but one, much to Elaine's horror Tom 'had to kill'. His words, not mine.
To and from our fishing adventure, Elaine and I took the opportunity to practice driving. Elaine drove there and I drove back. We both had to cross a rather harrowing (in the eyes of a new driver) highway. I'm happy to report that we both made it safely across. I'm also happy to report that Tom is very support driving instructor.
To and from our fishing adventure, Elaine and I took the opportunity to practice driving. Elaine drove there and I drove back. We both had to cross a rather harrowing (in the eyes of a new driver) highway. I'm happy to report that we both made it safely across. I'm also happy to report that Tom is very support driving instructor.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Hudiksvall I
Living life at Tom's pace is, well, relaxing. Also, he really can cook! If those Skandia dinners and the extravagance he put on for my dance weren't evidence enough, he does omelets too! I recommend you try one with cucumbers.
Of course, that means that not so much has happened since the last time we were at the library. Hudiksvall is a charming town. We visited the Telia store (twice), the shoemaker, the hemsljöd, an outlet shop where I purchased a cutting board, and a grocery store. Oh and we got pizza. After that buffet yesterday, we stopped for pizza.
Tom's house is completely charming. If you ever get an invitation and the time to visit, by all means, take him up on it. It's only drawback is the tiny tiny bathroom. It has a bathtub with a hand-held shower, but really only someone shorter than me (Judy?) could stand up in it. I don't know Elaine is coping. That being said, taking that shower was divine.
We did laundry this morning and, after the omelets, are back in town for another exciting day of perusing shops and trying to stay off of each others' toes.
Travel tip: bring lightweight, dark colored clothes. They dry fast and don't show stains!
Of course, that means that not so much has happened since the last time we were at the library. Hudiksvall is a charming town. We visited the Telia store (twice), the shoemaker, the hemsljöd, an outlet shop where I purchased a cutting board, and a grocery store. Oh and we got pizza. After that buffet yesterday, we stopped for pizza.
Tom's house is completely charming. If you ever get an invitation and the time to visit, by all means, take him up on it. It's only drawback is the tiny tiny bathroom. It has a bathtub with a hand-held shower, but really only someone shorter than me (Judy?) could stand up in it. I don't know Elaine is coping. That being said, taking that shower was divine.
We did laundry this morning and, after the omelets, are back in town for another exciting day of perusing shops and trying to stay off of each others' toes.
Travel tip: bring lightweight, dark colored clothes. They dry fast and don't show stains!
Monday, July 21, 2008
Fra Bø til Glada Hudik!
Barnival! That is how I rounded out my Telemark experience. I sat and worked on the Vinterdansen 09 budget while listening to the children's carnival below. Some of them were really pretty talented. Others were... children.
Then I was off again. I took the afternoon train from Bø to Oslo, then the night train to Stockholm and arrived at 11am in Hudiksvall, just before Tom and Elaine got to the train station.
This time on the night train I was not so lucky to have a cabin to myself. Instead, I shared it with 3 other women. We didn't have to change trains mid-ride, but it did seem like it stopped every half hour, and not with a gentle deceleration, but with crash and grind that makes me think someone should check the brakes.
Sitting in the not-quite-bejeweled Stockholm C I devoured a packet of dried fruit and nuts like a large squirrel. Travel tip: don't get hungry on Sundays. Also, if you are fortunate enough to read the language of the country you are travelling in, read the warning labels on the packages. The one on the fruit and nuts package said something along the lines of 'remember, it's easy for children to get nuts stuck in their noses.' How about that!
The remainder of the trip to Hudiksvall was uneventful and I was very happy to see Tom and Elaine pull up at the train station. We signed up for some computer time (which I'm using now) at the library, went to the bank, and had lunch at a Pan Asian buffet. I don't think I ate that much the entire time I was in Bø! Ethnic food in Scandinavian has come a long way since the last time I had Thai food in Stavanger with Sonya.
Then I was off again. I took the afternoon train from Bø to Oslo, then the night train to Stockholm and arrived at 11am in Hudiksvall, just before Tom and Elaine got to the train station.
This time on the night train I was not so lucky to have a cabin to myself. Instead, I shared it with 3 other women. We didn't have to change trains mid-ride, but it did seem like it stopped every half hour, and not with a gentle deceleration, but with crash and grind that makes me think someone should check the brakes.
Sitting in the not-quite-bejeweled Stockholm C I devoured a packet of dried fruit and nuts like a large squirrel. Travel tip: don't get hungry on Sundays. Also, if you are fortunate enough to read the language of the country you are travelling in, read the warning labels on the packages. The one on the fruit and nuts package said something along the lines of 'remember, it's easy for children to get nuts stuck in their noses.' How about that!
The remainder of the trip to Hudiksvall was uneventful and I was very happy to see Tom and Elaine pull up at the train station. We signed up for some computer time (which I'm using now) at the library, went to the bank, and had lunch at a Pan Asian buffet. I don't think I ate that much the entire time I was in Bø! Ethnic food in Scandinavian has come a long way since the last time I had Thai food in Stavanger with Sonya.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Telemarkfestivalen II
After reading my last post, I realized that I severely under-praised Unni Boksasp. Not only is she absolutely adorable, her voice is phenomenal and she sings those sad songs we all love to hear more of.
Saturday rounded out with a couple more concerts for me. The captivating reunion concert of Slinkombas in all their glory. If you don't have their vinyl from 30 years ago, now you can get them on CD! Finally, some folk music! I was especially pleased to hear yet another regional variation of Kråkevise (the crow song). Their encore (in Norway, everyone gets an encore, or so it seems) was a sing-a-long which everyone was clearly enjoying, especially the band.
Then I hiked up the hill in the rain to the old church (you know the one right next to the new church) for the church concert. At least half of the music was modern compositions by Henrik Ødegaard - interesting to say the least and the vocalists were extremely talented. No recordings of the actual concert will be posted because I filled up the rest of my memory card with the bell ringing at the beginning. Oops. :)
The highlight of the church concert for me was Vegar Vårdal. I really don't think there are enough superlatives in English and Norwegian combined for me to describe how much I like the guy. He is both extremely knowledgeable and talented. Add to that, he's a nice guy and wow! He played a springar early in the program. What you need to understand is that he doesn't just play, he dances and pirouettes and emotes the soul of a tune when he is in the spotlight. If you get the chance to listen to Vegar, make sure you have a good seat! If you get the chance to talk to him, brush up your Norwegian, I think he'd like that.
Oh, did I mention the pews at the church? They explain why Catholics were perfectly willing to stand up so often during mass. I would estimate them at about 10 inches deep, with no back except for a long plank to keep you from slouching just below shoulder level. I have a picture, but it doesn't do them justice.
I got a ride back to Gullbring from a girl who was in the singing course. It wasn't so dark (at 10:30) that I couldn't have walked back safely, but what had earlier been rain was now a downpour. I packed my things hoping that the rain would stop, so I could venture out for a couple more shows. I really wanted to see Valkyrien Allstars, but I really didn't want to get soaked, so I gave in at midnight ready for the next adventure.
Saturday rounded out with a couple more concerts for me. The captivating reunion concert of Slinkombas in all their glory. If you don't have their vinyl from 30 years ago, now you can get them on CD! Finally, some folk music! I was especially pleased to hear yet another regional variation of Kråkevise (the crow song). Their encore (in Norway, everyone gets an encore, or so it seems) was a sing-a-long which everyone was clearly enjoying, especially the band.
Then I hiked up the hill in the rain to the old church (you know the one right next to the new church) for the church concert. At least half of the music was modern compositions by Henrik Ødegaard - interesting to say the least and the vocalists were extremely talented. No recordings of the actual concert will be posted because I filled up the rest of my memory card with the bell ringing at the beginning. Oops. :)
The highlight of the church concert for me was Vegar Vårdal. I really don't think there are enough superlatives in English and Norwegian combined for me to describe how much I like the guy. He is both extremely knowledgeable and talented. Add to that, he's a nice guy and wow! He played a springar early in the program. What you need to understand is that he doesn't just play, he dances and pirouettes and emotes the soul of a tune when he is in the spotlight. If you get the chance to listen to Vegar, make sure you have a good seat! If you get the chance to talk to him, brush up your Norwegian, I think he'd like that.
Oh, did I mention the pews at the church? They explain why Catholics were perfectly willing to stand up so often during mass. I would estimate them at about 10 inches deep, with no back except for a long plank to keep you from slouching just below shoulder level. I have a picture, but it doesn't do them justice.
I got a ride back to Gullbring from a girl who was in the singing course. It wasn't so dark (at 10:30) that I couldn't have walked back safely, but what had earlier been rain was now a downpour. I packed my things hoping that the rain would stop, so I could venture out for a couple more shows. I really wanted to see Valkyrien Allstars, but I really didn't want to get soaked, so I gave in at midnight ready for the next adventure.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Telemarkfestivalen I
You would think that after two full days without a bed, I would have taken a nap, but no, there were still things to do. I managed to check my email in the quest to rid myself of one of those suitcases before I leave Telemark. I also purchased my festival pass, exchanged more money (at the bank) did some grocery shopping (gotta love bread and cheese). My dear sister will be happy to know that I bought a bag of carrots :). After all of that, I had just enough time left to eat before the opening concert.
The main performer (after the obligatory exhibition of the Bø spel og danserlag) was Faiz ali Faiz and his eight man orchestra from Pakistan. Check him out. Friday night's concert was Diom de Kossa with guest artists. I have never heard the cow horn played like that. I'll post a couple short videos here once I get my camera working.
I started Friday at the singing course with Camilla Granlien, who won 1st place at this years kappleik. Definitely worth the money. Then I heard a concert by singer Unni Boksasp, accompanied by Olav Mjelva and Ånon Egeland, among others. She is awesome. It was really fun to see Olav. I couldn't tell if he was suprised to see me or not. After the concert by Diom de Kossa, I headed 'downtown' and heard Catriona Macdonald from Shetland (excellent) and Halvorsen and Bruvoll. If you're looking for some excellent folksinging fused with a full band, their CD Trillar for to is the one to get. I haven't got my hands on it yet, but I have my eyes out.
One more day of festivaling and then I'm back to Sweden to meet up with Tom and Elaine in Hälsingland. Below are a couple more tips, or rather things I wish I had with me.
Travel tip: Cheese slicer - I brought mine. If you don't have one they sell them at the grocery stores. Small cutting board - I have noticed that it is very difficult to cut tomatoes using a grocery bag as a cutting board. Plastic ware and sharp knife - IKEA has some very sturdy reusable plastic utensils you can take on the plane. You also need some kind of pocket knife to cut said tomatoes. I also find myself imagining that a collapsible plastic bowl would be really handy, although I have no idea where I might find one...
The main performer (after the obligatory exhibition of the Bø spel og danserlag) was Faiz ali Faiz and his eight man orchestra from Pakistan. Check him out. Friday night's concert was Diom de Kossa with guest artists. I have never heard the cow horn played like that. I'll post a couple short videos here once I get my camera working.
I started Friday at the singing course with Camilla Granlien, who won 1st place at this years kappleik. Definitely worth the money. Then I heard a concert by singer Unni Boksasp, accompanied by Olav Mjelva and Ånon Egeland, among others. She is awesome. It was really fun to see Olav. I couldn't tell if he was suprised to see me or not. After the concert by Diom de Kossa, I headed 'downtown' and heard Catriona Macdonald from Shetland (excellent) and Halvorsen and Bruvoll. If you're looking for some excellent folksinging fused with a full band, their CD Trillar for to is the one to get. I haven't got my hands on it yet, but I have my eyes out.
One more day of festivaling and then I'm back to Sweden to meet up with Tom and Elaine in Hälsingland. Below are a couple more tips, or rather things I wish I had with me.
Travel tip: Cheese slicer - I brought mine. If you don't have one they sell them at the grocery stores. Small cutting board - I have noticed that it is very difficult to cut tomatoes using a grocery bag as a cutting board. Plastic ware and sharp knife - IKEA has some very sturdy reusable plastic utensils you can take on the plane. You also need some kind of pocket knife to cut said tomatoes. I also find myself imagining that a collapsible plastic bowl would be really handy, although I have no idea where I might find one...
The Rest of the Journey
Before I forget it all, I should probably make some notes about what happened after my last (first?) post. For starters, the Stockholm Central Station really is much nicer than the tiny little corner of it I crashed into at first. Although, if I hadn't been sitting there, I wouldn't have seen the three guys wandering around with their accordions hanging off their backs. :)
Imagine my excitement when the train pulled in and I hauled my two suitcases, fiddle, and backpack up the two steps and down to the far end of the narrow hallway to my cabin that had not three, but six beds! Not to worry, I didn't wind up getting any cabinmates. I slept as well as I usually do on a sleeper train. That is, everytime the train stops, I wake up. Fortunately it didn't stop very often. Unfortunately, it stopped at about 7:30 am outside of Fredrikstad. Due to some electrical trouble on the tracks, we had to change trains (remember all of my luggage?) in the middle of nowhere and take a different route in to Oslo. If I thought it was fun getting all of those bags up two stairs and down a hall, it was downright peachy dropping them off the side of the train, dragging them through the gravel, and hoisting them back up onto the new train. After all of that, we were only an hour late into Oslo. Not so bad.
At the Oslo Central Station, I picked up my tickets for the next leg of travel and headed for the Forex exchange office. Travel tip: if you are carrying traveller's checks, don't exchange them at Forex. Do it at a bank! Then I found some food and coffee. Food was to be a spinach and feta calzone. Mostly notable because it was really a spinach and feta curry calzone. I think the coffee was pretty good, but who knows after the curry and feta and a solid 40 hours of travelling!
The journey to Bø i Telemark was mostly uneventful. My suitcase fel
l out of the luggage rack on one big turn. Oh well. I got excellent directions at the tourist information office when I got off the train and took the bicycle path to the motel.It turns out the motel is the student housing during the school year - I can only hope that my room is this comfortable! Of course, I was assigned to the third floor (luggage!). I can't remember when a shower felt so good. I thought about taking a nap, but I still had things to do!
Ultimate travel tip: don't bring so much luggage!
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Stockholm C
Sleep deprived and coated with travel grime I have arrived safely at the midway point of my big trip. The Stockholm Central Station is less grand than I would have expected, but maybe I'm just too tired to drag my suitcase train, fiddles and other accessories far enough to enjoy the grandeur lurking around the corner. Oh well, that will have to wait for the way back.
It really hasn't sunk in yet that I'll be here for a year. I'm still focused on the 10+2 hour train rides left to go. My advice for next time is: allow myself 2 weeks before leaving to get organized and go for the shorter connections. By the time I get to Bø, I will have spent at least 9 hours waiting for the next mode of transportation to arrive. And that doesn't count waiting for the first plane.
With all that waiting fresh in my mind, I'm glad I brought my computer. It's heavy though, so with tighter layovers, I'd leave it behind or pack it in a suitcase next time. Copenhagen definitely wins the most comfortable place to wait (plus they had the fastest wireless connection).
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