August 22, 2008
Today we (mainly the first year students) went on a bus tour of the county. My favorite fact is that there are approximately 1.2 people per km2. We stopped at Vinje, the place the county is named for, and got a history lesson and performance from Åsmund Nordstoga. Awesome. A little further up the road we stopped and looked at an exhibition of paintings from Draumkvedet and Sondre Bratland told us the story and sang a few verses. Again, awesome.
Vinje Kommune is attractive to artists both because there is such a rich history in the area and because there is a lot of open space. The open space happens to be stunningly beautiful. While a five hour bus tour may have been a little long, I can't choose anything I would have left out. I also spent an extra half hour looking at the sculpture museum that is about five minutes up the hill from the dorm, so I couldn't have been too burnt out!
In the evening, I made dinner and had some friends over. Then I went downstairs and played hardingfele. They taught me some easy tunes and then I taught them three Finnskogspols. They sound pretty good on hardingfele! We were joined by a ukulele and guitar and a small audience. It was really a good way to end the week.
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Today we play & Back to Bø
August 21, 2008
The main focus of Thursday's classes was learning tunes and playing together. We did that all morning and part of the afternoon. Then we were assigned instructors and there was the optional class in beginning music theory. I took the music theory, mostly because I figured it would be helpful to know what everything was in Norwegian.
After class I got a ride to Bø from one of my instructors, Ragnhild Furholt. The drive takes an hour and a half and it is difficult to get there and back in one afternoon on the bus. I was really glad that she was willing to take me as a passenger. I tried to keep up conversation, but as we wound our way down the mountain, I began to feel more and more carsick and talking much just wasn't an option. It all worked out and we made it into town without any major catastrophes.
In Bø, I collected my suitcase. By that I mean, I walked into the basement of the student home that was the motel I'd stayed in during the Telemarkfestival, grabbed my suitcase, and walked out. It was that easy, and I'm glad no one else had done it! Then I waited at the bus stop for three hours and couldn't make phone calls because the phone card wasn't working. I did get to talk to a very nice lady who had had a rather irritating day travelling on the late Norwegian trains.
Back on the bus, I tried to sleep. That didn't exactly work since the lady behind me was talking incessantly in a very high-pitched whine. I was also worried about the connection in Åmot. I shouldn't have been.
We pulled into the bus station in Åmot and the only vehicles parked in the bus zone were a minivan and two SUV's. I was trying to decide if I should ask someone if the bus to Rauland had left, when the guy with the minivan asked where I was going. When I said Rauland, he pointed to the first of the two SUV's. It's a pretty smart system. In day time I haven't seen more than six people on the bus; why should they spend the gas on driving a whole bus up the mountain when they could just send a small vehicle? Needless to say, I was the only passenger heading to Rauland and I got delivered back to the dorm.
Once inside with my suitcase, I started unpacking. Suddenly, I have have doubled my wardrobe! It's like going shopping without spending money or trying things on! Plus, now I have batteries and chargers and dictionaries that I didn't have before. Hannukah in August!
The main focus of Thursday's classes was learning tunes and playing together. We did that all morning and part of the afternoon. Then we were assigned instructors and there was the optional class in beginning music theory. I took the music theory, mostly because I figured it would be helpful to know what everything was in Norwegian.
After class I got a ride to Bø from one of my instructors, Ragnhild Furholt. The drive takes an hour and a half and it is difficult to get there and back in one afternoon on the bus. I was really glad that she was willing to take me as a passenger. I tried to keep up conversation, but as we wound our way down the mountain, I began to feel more and more carsick and talking much just wasn't an option. It all worked out and we made it into town without any major catastrophes.
In Bø, I collected my suitcase. By that I mean, I walked into the basement of the student home that was the motel I'd stayed in during the Telemarkfestival, grabbed my suitcase, and walked out. It was that easy, and I'm glad no one else had done it! Then I waited at the bus stop for three hours and couldn't make phone calls because the phone card wasn't working. I did get to talk to a very nice lady who had had a rather irritating day travelling on the late Norwegian trains.
Back on the bus, I tried to sleep. That didn't exactly work since the lady behind me was talking incessantly in a very high-pitched whine. I was also worried about the connection in Åmot. I shouldn't have been.
We pulled into the bus station in Åmot and the only vehicles parked in the bus zone were a minivan and two SUV's. I was trying to decide if I should ask someone if the bus to Rauland had left, when the guy with the minivan asked where I was going. When I said Rauland, he pointed to the first of the two SUV's. It's a pretty smart system. In day time I haven't seen more than six people on the bus; why should they spend the gas on driving a whole bus up the mountain when they could just send a small vehicle? Needless to say, I was the only passenger heading to Rauland and I got delivered back to the dorm.
Once inside with my suitcase, I started unpacking. Suddenly, I have have doubled my wardrobe! It's like going shopping without spending money or trying things on! Plus, now I have batteries and chargers and dictionaries that I didn't have before. Hannukah in August!
The first day of classes
August 20, 2008
The opening ceremonies went as to be expected. There were several inspirational speeches, the instructors and support staff were introduced, and we had roll call for all of the students. That afternoon we broke into our classes and went over the syllabus for the first semester. There are eleven students in first year folk music; we come from five different countries and play an entire orchestra full of intruments. After that we had library orientation and we had made it through our first day.
The first night was a welcome party. The second year music students and the instructors played during the first part of the evening. The teachers sold beverages. We were in Årestoga, which is a reconstruction (I think) of the type of log buildings you see all over Norway; this one has a small entryway for coats and shoes and a rather large main room with a stone floor. There was easily enough room for the roughly 60 people in attendance to sit at the tables with a cozy dance space in the center.
Once all of the second year students had taken their turn, the first year students were encouraged to come up and play. Timidly, a few of us left our seats, got our instruments and started to tune. A few second year students joined us. We played for at least an hour. We played whatever came up first. If someone didn't know it, they hung in there singing or playing chords until the melody hit them. It was great fun until the instructors sent us home at 11.
Birgit had announced that the after party was at her place, which, when you have that many people over means that it is also in my kitchen. I thought that was a splendid place for an after party. Three of the hardingfele students broke out their instruments and played until the early hours of the morning. They had a huge repertoire in common and it was amazing to sit and listen to them, in between talking with people and trying to get the moths back on the correct side of the glass.
The opening ceremonies went as to be expected. There were several inspirational speeches, the instructors and support staff were introduced, and we had roll call for all of the students. That afternoon we broke into our classes and went over the syllabus for the first semester. There are eleven students in first year folk music; we come from five different countries and play an entire orchestra full of intruments. After that we had library orientation and we had made it through our first day.
The first night was a welcome party. The second year music students and the instructors played during the first part of the evening. The teachers sold beverages. We were in Årestoga, which is a reconstruction (I think) of the type of log buildings you see all over Norway; this one has a small entryway for coats and shoes and a rather large main room with a stone floor. There was easily enough room for the roughly 60 people in attendance to sit at the tables with a cozy dance space in the center.
Once all of the second year students had taken their turn, the first year students were encouraged to come up and play. Timidly, a few of us left our seats, got our instruments and started to tune. A few second year students joined us. We played for at least an hour. We played whatever came up first. If someone didn't know it, they hung in there singing or playing chords until the melody hit them. It was great fun until the instructors sent us home at 11.
Birgit had announced that the after party was at her place, which, when you have that many people over means that it is also in my kitchen. I thought that was a splendid place for an after party. Three of the hardingfele students broke out their instruments and played until the early hours of the morning. They had a huge repertoire in common and it was amazing to sit and listen to them, in between talking with people and trying to get the moths back on the correct side of the glass.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
A day without luggage, almost
August 19, 2008
The first stop today was back at the school. I got my invoice for my school fees (roughly $150 for the semester) and asked a bunch of questions I hadn't asked the day before. Then, I headed up the hill to Rauland Sentrum. Blink and you'd miss it, if you were driving. I did find a place with specialty coffee; we'll have to see how special it is since it cost a small fortune. I also found the grocery store and the ATM.
I took the bus back to Åmot to check in with the police department. The officer I need to talk with is out until possibly Monday, they'll leave a message at the school if and when I need to come back down. I bought a cell phone :D It should start working in a day or two. When I came out of the store, It was just after two o'clock. I had just missed the bus up the hill.
With the extra four hours I had in Åmot, I checked out the two grocery stores. I tried to pay the semester fees, but without enough cash or a Norwegian bank account, I was out of luck. I spent the remaining three hours waiting at the bus stop. At least I got a cup of coffee and some french fries while I waited!
On the bus ride back, I felt relaxed enough to look around at the scenery. Even in the drizzle increasing to downpour, the vistas around every corner are amazing. The road between Åmot and Rauland is not straight. It curves and curls and twists and turns in a northeast fashion for roughly 18 kilometers. Sometimes there are houses on the sides of the road, sometimes itæs just forest and rocks and lakes and rivers. All of it is beautiful.
There were four people on the bus on the way back. All of us were students, but only three of us were students here. The boy got off before we got to the school. The other girl was from Germany and had a fair amount of luggage. I offered to wait with her to make sure she made it to her room. The main doors were locked to the school, so we walked up to the studentheim where the vaktmester's phone number is posted on the wall. She knew her room number and we found one of the Norwegian students to help her call. It turned out that another student had the master key, so everything worked out just fine. Now, I think I'll practice for a while to settle my nerves.
The first stop today was back at the school. I got my invoice for my school fees (roughly $150 for the semester) and asked a bunch of questions I hadn't asked the day before. Then, I headed up the hill to Rauland Sentrum. Blink and you'd miss it, if you were driving. I did find a place with specialty coffee; we'll have to see how special it is since it cost a small fortune. I also found the grocery store and the ATM.
I took the bus back to Åmot to check in with the police department. The officer I need to talk with is out until possibly Monday, they'll leave a message at the school if and when I need to come back down. I bought a cell phone :D It should start working in a day or two. When I came out of the store, It was just after two o'clock. I had just missed the bus up the hill.
With the extra four hours I had in Åmot, I checked out the two grocery stores. I tried to pay the semester fees, but without enough cash or a Norwegian bank account, I was out of luck. I spent the remaining three hours waiting at the bus stop. At least I got a cup of coffee and some french fries while I waited!
On the bus ride back, I felt relaxed enough to look around at the scenery. Even in the drizzle increasing to downpour, the vistas around every corner are amazing. The road between Åmot and Rauland is not straight. It curves and curls and twists and turns in a northeast fashion for roughly 18 kilometers. Sometimes there are houses on the sides of the road, sometimes itæs just forest and rocks and lakes and rivers. All of it is beautiful.
There were four people on the bus on the way back. All of us were students, but only three of us were students here. The boy got off before we got to the school. The other girl was from Germany and had a fair amount of luggage. I offered to wait with her to make sure she made it to her room. The main doors were locked to the school, so we walked up to the studentheim where the vaktmester's phone number is posted on the wall. She knew her room number and we found one of the Norwegian students to help her call. It turned out that another student had the master key, so everything worked out just fine. Now, I think I'll practice for a while to settle my nerves.
First Night
August 18, 2008
Birgit and I will be sharing a kitchen. We are the only ones who will be sharing our luxurious kitchen with an awesome view and a dishwasher. That's right, a dishwasher. Of course, I think we've already had half the school (at least most of the building) here as her guests, so I don't think we'll be wanting for a social life.
Birgit made dinner (thank goodness), sweet and sour chicken, and shared her wine. She went for a walk and I did the dishes and took a nap. When I woke up, there was a small crowd in her room. I think the total headcount was at one point eleven people. Possibly twelve. It was a nice way to start meeting people.
Birgit and I will be sharing a kitchen. We are the only ones who will be sharing our luxurious kitchen with an awesome view and a dishwasher. That's right, a dishwasher. Of course, I think we've already had half the school (at least most of the building) here as her guests, so I don't think we'll be wanting for a social life.
Birgit made dinner (thank goodness), sweet and sour chicken, and shared her wine. She went for a walk and I did the dishes and took a nap. When I woke up, there was a small crowd in her room. I think the total headcount was at one point eleven people. Possibly twelve. It was a nice way to start meeting people.
Transition
August 17-18, 2008
That evening, it was Peder's turn to head to school. He packed and cleared out his room. I packed my things and prepared for my 4am wake-up and 5am bus departure the next morning. We had dinner as a family. I stayed up way too late watching one more movie before going to bed. I didn't really want to leave.
I was so nervous that I would oversleep, that I woke up before the alarm. I was just about ready when Oddmund came to check on me. I grabbed an apple and headed out the door with all of my luggage. The bus was waiting for me and I climbed on board.
Three and a half hours later, I got off in Oslo. I got a sandwich and the ticket to Åmot. Confusingly, the displays listed two bus number 180's, one going through Vinje and one that didn't. The one going through Vinje never arrived, so just before the other one took off, I asked the driver if there was another bus coming. Nope! He was the only one. I'm sure glad I asked.
Four more hours on the bus, plus a little extra for some new asphalt (I took that as a good omen), we pulled in Åmot. The drivers change buses there and get a little break, so it's hard to miss your stop if that's where you're supposed to get off. One last short trip in a minibus up the mountain and I had arrived at Raulands Akademiet.
I checked in and got my key from the super helpful Anne Margit. She has been helping me via email for months now, so it was nice to meet her in person. She introduced me to the vaktmester (janitor just doesn't quite cover it) for the school and the student housing. He drove me up the hill, carried my bag, and showed me my room. It was then that I met Birgit.
That evening, it was Peder's turn to head to school. He packed and cleared out his room. I packed my things and prepared for my 4am wake-up and 5am bus departure the next morning. We had dinner as a family. I stayed up way too late watching one more movie before going to bed. I didn't really want to leave.
I was so nervous that I would oversleep, that I woke up before the alarm. I was just about ready when Oddmund came to check on me. I grabbed an apple and headed out the door with all of my luggage. The bus was waiting for me and I climbed on board.
Three and a half hours later, I got off in Oslo. I got a sandwich and the ticket to Åmot. Confusingly, the displays listed two bus number 180's, one going through Vinje and one that didn't. The one going through Vinje never arrived, so just before the other one took off, I asked the driver if there was another bus coming. Nope! He was the only one. I'm sure glad I asked.
Four more hours on the bus, plus a little extra for some new asphalt (I took that as a good omen), we pulled in Åmot. The drivers change buses there and get a little break, so it's hard to miss your stop if that's where you're supposed to get off. One last short trip in a minibus up the mountain and I had arrived at Raulands Akademiet.
I checked in and got my key from the super helpful Anne Margit. She has been helping me via email for months now, so it was nice to meet her in person. She introduced me to the vaktmester (janitor just doesn't quite cover it) for the school and the student housing. He drove me up the hill, carried my bag, and showed me my room. It was then that I met Birgit.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Trysil IV
August 17, 2008
Today is my last day of vacation. I could have gotten up and gone to church to hear Else and her mother play, but I just didn't have the drive. I didn't get out of bed until close to eleven and was just finishing breakfast when Liv Marit and Oddmund came back. They weren't home for more than ten minutes before we took off to Solbekken, the local open air museum which is one of the oldest in Norway.
All of the buildings were open and there were demonstrations in almost all corners of the museum. Else was scheduled to play the whole day. Peder and I danced a couple of dances. Oddmund drove back to the house to get my fiddle so I could play some with Else, and returned with my fiddle and Geir. Else and I managed to find some tunes we both knew well enough to play for an audience of a couple hundred people who were not really listening, so we had a good time.
During the closing program, it was again the Myhr family who stole the show. Else played while Peder and Geir (the other brother) danced the ox dance and a halling. They did a great job. Especially if you consider that they were dancing on grass, barefoot, and the lady holding the hat had never done it before. Add to that, the hat they were offered was a ten pound cowboy hat and the stick curved upwards. It was basically impossible for them to have successfully kicked that hat off the stick.
While the closing gifts continued to be exchanged, I got to try some traditional Trysil food. Let me highlight rømmesoll - Norwegian style sour cream (rømme) with fresh curds and sugar. Delicious. Also, a local type of lefse that was pretty darn tasty with just butter (but, really, what isn't?).
Today is my last day of vacation. I could have gotten up and gone to church to hear Else and her mother play, but I just didn't have the drive. I didn't get out of bed until close to eleven and was just finishing breakfast when Liv Marit and Oddmund came back. They weren't home for more than ten minutes before we took off to Solbekken, the local open air museum which is one of the oldest in Norway.
All of the buildings were open and there were demonstrations in almost all corners of the museum. Else was scheduled to play the whole day. Peder and I danced a couple of dances. Oddmund drove back to the house to get my fiddle so I could play some with Else, and returned with my fiddle and Geir. Else and I managed to find some tunes we both knew well enough to play for an audience of a couple hundred people who were not really listening, so we had a good time.
During the closing program, it was again the Myhr family who stole the show. Else played while Peder and Geir (the other brother) danced the ox dance and a halling. They did a great job. Especially if you consider that they were dancing on grass, barefoot, and the lady holding the hat had never done it before. Add to that, the hat they were offered was a ten pound cowboy hat and the stick curved upwards. It was basically impossible for them to have successfully kicked that hat off the stick.
While the closing gifts continued to be exchanged, I got to try some traditional Trysil food. Let me highlight rømmesoll - Norwegian style sour cream (rømme) with fresh curds and sugar. Delicious. Also, a local type of lefse that was pretty darn tasty with just butter (but, really, what isn't?).
Trysil III
August 16, 2008
Today was a relaxing day (for me) in Trysil. After I finally was up and had breakfast, we didn't have to watch the Olympics for long before Liv Marit began cooking lapper (thick pancakes, like American ones). We ate them with combinations fresh strawberry jam, brown cheese, sour cream, and butter.
Then, Else and I took the row boat out on the river. After watching the Norwegian rower, Olaf Tufte, get the gold medal in men's single sculls we were inspired. We are not, however, Olympic rowers, so we just paddled around in the calm bay where the boat was kept. We took pictures, enjoyed the weather, and did some boat tricks.
After dinner out at the local Chinese restaurant, we found ourselves at the closing concert of the Trysilutvandererstemne (Trysil Emigrant Gathering). It wasn't really surprising that we were there, Else, Peder, Inga, and Martin (her brother, sister, and uncle) were part of the program. Else played for dancing. Inga and Martin (yes, that Martin Myhr) danced. Peder got the high honor of dressing as the bear that got chased, shot, and then danced around; he was excellent. Martin also recited two poems that were really quite moving. There were also performances from the men's choir, the children at the music school, and other musicians. It was a great show.
In addition to the great show, there were speeches by the mayor and the head of the visiting American delegation. The mayor spoke in English and Norwegian, with some interesting omissions or additions depending on how you look at it. Then it was the American's turn. He had several gifts and kept turning away from the microphone to present them to the Norwegian members of the committee. This prompted calls from the audience. I'm not sure how many times we heard "MICROPHONE!" from the audience in a nice clear Minnesota accent. I do know that if I'd heard it one more time, I would have started laughing out loud and that can be difficult to stop.
Today was a relaxing day (for me) in Trysil. After I finally was up and had breakfast, we didn't have to watch the Olympics for long before Liv Marit began cooking lapper (thick pancakes, like American ones). We ate them with combinations fresh strawberry jam, brown cheese, sour cream, and butter.
Then, Else and I took the row boat out on the river. After watching the Norwegian rower, Olaf Tufte, get the gold medal in men's single sculls we were inspired. We are not, however, Olympic rowers, so we just paddled around in the calm bay where the boat was kept. We took pictures, enjoyed the weather, and did some boat tricks.
After dinner out at the local Chinese restaurant, we found ourselves at the closing concert of the Trysilutvandererstemne (Trysil Emigrant Gathering). It wasn't really surprising that we were there, Else, Peder, Inga, and Martin (her brother, sister, and uncle) were part of the program. Else played for dancing. Inga and Martin (yes, that Martin Myhr) danced. Peder got the high honor of dressing as the bear that got chased, shot, and then danced around; he was excellent. Martin also recited two poems that were really quite moving. There were also performances from the men's choir, the children at the music school, and other musicians. It was a great show.
In addition to the great show, there were speeches by the mayor and the head of the visiting American delegation. The mayor spoke in English and Norwegian, with some interesting omissions or additions depending on how you look at it. Then it was the American's turn. He had several gifts and kept turning away from the microphone to present them to the Norwegian members of the committee. This prompted calls from the audience. I'm not sure how many times we heard "MICROPHONE!" from the audience in a nice clear Minnesota accent. I do know that if I'd heard it one more time, I would have started laughing out loud and that can be difficult to stop.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Trysil II
August 15, 2008
When I arrived in Trysil Else's mother (Liv Marit) was waiting for me. Back at the house, Else asked if I wanted to come with her to Anne's house to watch a movie. Sure, why not? Off we went! We had a regular old girls' night. We watched Jane Austen's Emma, ate apple cake, and talked about boys and parents.
When we headed to Anne's house we walked up a steep path called kjærlighetsvei. At that time it was still light out. On the way back we used Else's muscle memory and my white shoes to guide us through the woods. Sadly, we didn't meet anyone going up or down the path.
When we got home we, and everyone else, were hungry. Else's brothers had prepared some bread and cheese that just needed to go in the oven; think crostini with a Norwegian twist. Everyone sat down at the kitchen table (seven of us total) and as soon as the cookie sheets were within reach, they were overcome by hungry hands. I had been warned to take what I wanted and eat if I was hungry. Any one who has eaten with a large family is familiar with the eat or go hungry atmosphere that can surround a table. I think everyone wound up with the same amount of food, but all I can say for sure is that I got enough to eat!
When I arrived in Trysil Else's mother (Liv Marit) was waiting for me. Back at the house, Else asked if I wanted to come with her to Anne's house to watch a movie. Sure, why not? Off we went! We had a regular old girls' night. We watched Jane Austen's Emma, ate apple cake, and talked about boys and parents.
When we headed to Anne's house we walked up a steep path called kjærlighetsvei. At that time it was still light out. On the way back we used Else's muscle memory and my white shoes to guide us through the woods. Sadly, we didn't meet anyone going up or down the path.
When we got home we, and everyone else, were hungry. Else's brothers had prepared some bread and cheese that just needed to go in the oven; think crostini with a Norwegian twist. Everyone sat down at the kitchen table (seven of us total) and as soon as the cookie sheets were within reach, they were overcome by hungry hands. I had been warned to take what I wanted and eat if I was hungry. Any one who has eaten with a large family is familiar with the eat or go hungry atmosphere that can surround a table. I think everyone wound up with the same amount of food, but all I can say for sure is that I got enough to eat!
Hamar III
August 15, 2008
Before returning the the Hedmark Museum, I stopped at an electronics store (El-kjøp) to check out cell phones. I'm still not quite ready to make the leap and purchase a phone, but it gave me the opportunity to read about the various plans. I now have a better idea of what it is I want, I think. It seems like I talk on the phone more than I send text messages, and that I talk on the phone a lot. So, it makes the most sense to me to get a slightly more expensive monthly plan with a less expensive rate by the minute. I'd welcome feedback on this topic.
I continued on my way to the Hedmark Museum and arrived just as Bjørn Sverre was pulling into the parking lot. We had lunch in his house, which is on the museum grounds, with another friend of his who was visiting from Oslo. She was also a fiddler and a dancer. She was also a jeweler and super sweet.
After lunch, Bjørn Sverre gave us a tour of the museum. The museum includes buildings from all periods of Hedmarks history from the ruins of the medieval church (ca. 1250) to early twentieth century buildings that aren't quite open yet. Bjørn Sverre had to go in and water the plants, so we got to see the house in the process of being staged.
Then he showed us the highlights from the 17th century exhibit, including a whiskey still, a mechanical thresher, and ornate sleighs. Before potatoes came to the area, many of the smaller households were dependant on the income the women of the families made working with the linen and wool textile industry. After the advent of potatoes, the fields that had been used for linen were used to grow potatoes and many families lost up to 46% procent of their textile based income. At least, that's what I think Bjørn Sverre was telling us.
In the end, he arranged a ride for me back into town. I'd done a lot of walking and was a little worried about coming back to Trysil. I got a ride with a lovely woman who dropped me off at the train station just in time to catch the train to Elverum. Of course, there were a couple guys getting on the train who had at least eight suitcases between them, so we were a little late leaving the station.
I should have had twenty minutes to walk to the bus station in Elverum, instead I had eleven. I hurried and arrived at the bus station at exactly 4:50 when the bus should have been leaving. But it was no where to be found. I went inside and it didn't appear to have arrived. I figured that I had time to risk heading to the pay phone to call Else and let her know I was coming. A half hour later, the bus showed up. Again, student price! I was on my way back to Trysil.
Before returning the the Hedmark Museum, I stopped at an electronics store (El-kjøp) to check out cell phones. I'm still not quite ready to make the leap and purchase a phone, but it gave me the opportunity to read about the various plans. I now have a better idea of what it is I want, I think. It seems like I talk on the phone more than I send text messages, and that I talk on the phone a lot. So, it makes the most sense to me to get a slightly more expensive monthly plan with a less expensive rate by the minute. I'd welcome feedback on this topic.
I continued on my way to the Hedmark Museum and arrived just as Bjørn Sverre was pulling into the parking lot. We had lunch in his house, which is on the museum grounds, with another friend of his who was visiting from Oslo. She was also a fiddler and a dancer. She was also a jeweler and super sweet.
After lunch, Bjørn Sverre gave us a tour of the museum. The museum includes buildings from all periods of Hedmarks history from the ruins of the medieval church (ca. 1250) to early twentieth century buildings that aren't quite open yet. Bjørn Sverre had to go in and water the plants, so we got to see the house in the process of being staged.
Then he showed us the highlights from the 17th century exhibit, including a whiskey still, a mechanical thresher, and ornate sleighs. Before potatoes came to the area, many of the smaller households were dependant on the income the women of the families made working with the linen and wool textile industry. After the advent of potatoes, the fields that had been used for linen were used to grow potatoes and many families lost up to 46% procent of their textile based income. At least, that's what I think Bjørn Sverre was telling us.
In the end, he arranged a ride for me back into town. I'd done a lot of walking and was a little worried about coming back to Trysil. I got a ride with a lovely woman who dropped me off at the train station just in time to catch the train to Elverum. Of course, there were a couple guys getting on the train who had at least eight suitcases between them, so we were a little late leaving the station.
I should have had twenty minutes to walk to the bus station in Elverum, instead I had eleven. I hurried and arrived at the bus station at exactly 4:50 when the bus should have been leaving. But it was no where to be found. I went inside and it didn't appear to have arrived. I figured that I had time to risk heading to the pay phone to call Else and let her know I was coming. A half hour later, the bus showed up. Again, student price! I was on my way back to Trysil.
Hamar II
August 14, 2008
We caught up while we waited for dinner to come out of the oven. Jan, is the current world champion in fly swatting, a sport we think should be in the Olympic Games in four years.
The last time I saw Jan and Alvhild, I was a vegetarian. Not knowing that I had gone back to my omnivorous habits, Alvhild had prepared a completely delicious Macaroni dish with vegetables, garlic, mushrooms, and, of course, cheese. We had home made black current juice to drink. Erling came home with exciting calculations of how many cans of beer he'd lifted today; his summer job has been loading bottled beverages at the local brewery, which is home to Norway's most popular beer, Ringnes.
We decided over dinner that next time I come to Norway, I need to have a helicopter and a helicopter pilot. This would solve so many problems. It would take less time to get where I needed to go. I wouldn't need to buy the tickets, and therefore wouldn't forget the dates I was arriving places. I could also go back and forth between areas of Norway much more easily. Perhaps I'll win the lottery, although I suppose it's difficult to win if you don't buy tickets!
We looked at photos. Photos from this trip, photos from the last time they were in Seattle, and a few videos they'd taken at the 2006 Stemne. There were lots of videos of the Ballard Locks' fish ladder. Finally we all gave in and went to sleep. I'll have to visit Hamar again, since they were all gone to work in the morning when I got up. Perhaps during the winter break I'll find time to return.
We caught up while we waited for dinner to come out of the oven. Jan, is the current world champion in fly swatting, a sport we think should be in the Olympic Games in four years.
The last time I saw Jan and Alvhild, I was a vegetarian. Not knowing that I had gone back to my omnivorous habits, Alvhild had prepared a completely delicious Macaroni dish with vegetables, garlic, mushrooms, and, of course, cheese. We had home made black current juice to drink. Erling came home with exciting calculations of how many cans of beer he'd lifted today; his summer job has been loading bottled beverages at the local brewery, which is home to Norway's most popular beer, Ringnes.
We decided over dinner that next time I come to Norway, I need to have a helicopter and a helicopter pilot. This would solve so many problems. It would take less time to get where I needed to go. I wouldn't need to buy the tickets, and therefore wouldn't forget the dates I was arriving places. I could also go back and forth between areas of Norway much more easily. Perhaps I'll win the lottery, although I suppose it's difficult to win if you don't buy tickets!
We looked at photos. Photos from this trip, photos from the last time they were in Seattle, and a few videos they'd taken at the 2006 Stemne. There were lots of videos of the Ballard Locks' fish ladder. Finally we all gave in and went to sleep. I'll have to visit Hamar again, since they were all gone to work in the morning when I got up. Perhaps during the winter break I'll find time to return.
Hamar I
August 14, 2008
I got up early and was delivered back to the bus station. The plan was take the bus (really two buses) to Hamar, visit the Hedmark Museum and Bjørn Sverre, spend the night with Jan and Alvhild and return to Trysil on Friday. Things went really well for the first stage of the plan. Once I got off the bus in Hamar, however, I had to start thinking on my feet.
First, I realized that I didn't really know where it was that I was going. Travel tip: The Hedmark Museum is a fabulous open air museum, but if you want to get there, look for Domkirkeodden on the map. I wound up going to Husfliden and asking them how to get there. They gave me excellent directions and said it would take 15-20 minutes to walk. Since it was drizzling and I didn't feel like pushing it, I took closer to 25 minutes. The rain stopped just as I arrived at the museum.
When I arrived at the museum, I asked at the gift shop if they could call Bjørn Sverre for me. I said I wasn't sure if he was expecting me, but that I thought he knew I was coming. They said he'd had a couple of other guests arrive shortly before and was I with them? No, but I was fairly certain that it was Alix and Roo, and I wouldn't mind joining them. So the girl at the desk tried his office and his cell phone. No answer. I wandered around the museum for a half an hour and we tried calling again with the same result.
I left my bag at the gift shop and took a detailed tour of the grounds. We tried calling again, but still no answer. So, I had an ice cream and a bottle of water, wrote a letter, and enjoyed the sunshine. As I was getting up, just before 3:00, I saw Bjørn Sverre, Alix, and Roo coming down the path from the restaurant! Naturally, they had been there for an hour and a half and I hadn't gone back in to check after my first short tour. Bjørn Sverre was encouraging us to attend the miniconcert in the cathedral ruins (covered by an acoustically resonant glass protective structure), but he had to hurry to make it to his mother's birthday party. We agreed that I would return tomorrow for lunch.
The concert was splendid and brief. Roo, Alix, and I took a short tour to the outdoor, permanent wooden dance stage. We looked at the older farm buildings that were the earliest part of the museum. Then, they needed to look at the gift shop and I needed to get back to the entrance. I was scheduled to meet Jan and Alvhild at 4:00.
I got up early and was delivered back to the bus station. The plan was take the bus (really two buses) to Hamar, visit the Hedmark Museum and Bjørn Sverre, spend the night with Jan and Alvhild and return to Trysil on Friday. Things went really well for the first stage of the plan. Once I got off the bus in Hamar, however, I had to start thinking on my feet.
First, I realized that I didn't really know where it was that I was going. Travel tip: The Hedmark Museum is a fabulous open air museum, but if you want to get there, look for Domkirkeodden on the map. I wound up going to Husfliden and asking them how to get there. They gave me excellent directions and said it would take 15-20 minutes to walk. Since it was drizzling and I didn't feel like pushing it, I took closer to 25 minutes. The rain stopped just as I arrived at the museum.
When I arrived at the museum, I asked at the gift shop if they could call Bjørn Sverre for me. I said I wasn't sure if he was expecting me, but that I thought he knew I was coming. They said he'd had a couple of other guests arrive shortly before and was I with them? No, but I was fairly certain that it was Alix and Roo, and I wouldn't mind joining them. So the girl at the desk tried his office and his cell phone. No answer. I wandered around the museum for a half an hour and we tried calling again with the same result.
I left my bag at the gift shop and took a detailed tour of the grounds. We tried calling again, but still no answer. So, I had an ice cream and a bottle of water, wrote a letter, and enjoyed the sunshine. As I was getting up, just before 3:00, I saw Bjørn Sverre, Alix, and Roo coming down the path from the restaurant! Naturally, they had been there for an hour and a half and I hadn't gone back in to check after my first short tour. Bjørn Sverre was encouraging us to attend the miniconcert in the cathedral ruins (covered by an acoustically resonant glass protective structure), but he had to hurry to make it to his mother's birthday party. We agreed that I would return tomorrow for lunch.
The concert was splendid and brief. Roo, Alix, and I took a short tour to the outdoor, permanent wooden dance stage. We looked at the older farm buildings that were the earliest part of the museum. Then, they needed to look at the gift shop and I needed to get back to the entrance. I was scheduled to meet Jan and Alvhild at 4:00.
Trysil I
August 13, 2008
The train from Trondheim was relatively uneventful. It arrived late in Elverum after traveling at about 45km/hr for roughly an hour due to signal problems. When I got off the train, I still had to get to my friend's house in Trysil and I had no clue how to do that. So I called her.
When Else didn't answer her phone, I called her parents. When they didn't answer, I called Tom not stopping to think that it was 7:30 in the morning and there was no way he'd be awake. Then I called my sister and Anna. They didn't answer either, so I called Else again. This time, she answered right away, and gave me directions to the bus station.
The bus station was a reasonable walk from the train station (not my design, but better than Seattle), but I had a half an hour so I wasn't in a hurry. When the bus arrived, the driver very kindly gave me the student discount, even though I don't have a student ID yet. It's a 50% discount in a country where everything is expensive, so I was very appreciative.
After an hour and twenty minutes' ride, Else's mother met me at the bus station in Trysil. She took me to their house, helped me get my laundry in the wash, and instructed me to wear one of Else's rain jackets. She also helped me realize what day it was. I had managed to lose a day in my travelling and ticket purchasing. I figured things would all work out, since I didn't have any hard and fast plans.
Before long we were back in the car to pick up Else from work. From the hospital, where both of Else's parents are nurses and Else works in the kitchen when she is on holiday, Else and I headed to one of the local restaurants. We met a couple of her childhood friends (Anne and Kari) who were also back in town for their summer holiday and enjoyed a pizza and a beverage.
Back at Else's house, I met her aunt and uncle and their son who will be moving into the apartment downstairs while he goes to school next year. Of Else's three siblings, two of the other's were home and the oldest was expected to arrive any time. Inga, the younger sister, was giving up her bed for me, and I gratefully passed out.
The train from Trondheim was relatively uneventful. It arrived late in Elverum after traveling at about 45km/hr for roughly an hour due to signal problems. When I got off the train, I still had to get to my friend's house in Trysil and I had no clue how to do that. So I called her.
When Else didn't answer her phone, I called her parents. When they didn't answer, I called Tom not stopping to think that it was 7:30 in the morning and there was no way he'd be awake. Then I called my sister and Anna. They didn't answer either, so I called Else again. This time, she answered right away, and gave me directions to the bus station.
The bus station was a reasonable walk from the train station (not my design, but better than Seattle), but I had a half an hour so I wasn't in a hurry. When the bus arrived, the driver very kindly gave me the student discount, even though I don't have a student ID yet. It's a 50% discount in a country where everything is expensive, so I was very appreciative.
After an hour and twenty minutes' ride, Else's mother met me at the bus station in Trysil. She took me to their house, helped me get my laundry in the wash, and instructed me to wear one of Else's rain jackets. She also helped me realize what day it was. I had managed to lose a day in my travelling and ticket purchasing. I figured things would all work out, since I didn't have any hard and fast plans.
Before long we were back in the car to pick up Else from work. From the hospital, where both of Else's parents are nurses and Else works in the kitchen when she is on holiday, Else and I headed to one of the local restaurants. We met a couple of her childhood friends (Anne and Kari) who were also back in town for their summer holiday and enjoyed a pizza and a beverage.
Back at Else's house, I met her aunt and uncle and their son who will be moving into the apartment downstairs while he goes to school next year. Of Else's three siblings, two of the other's were home and the oldest was expected to arrive any time. Inga, the younger sister, was giving up her bed for me, and I gratefully passed out.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Farvel til Nord-Norge
August 12, 2008
After breakfast, I packed my bags again, so they would be ready in the afternoon. Before the day was over we had accomplished more than just a large pile of freshly split logs and packed suitcases, however. Anne made skoleboller to go with coffee while splitting logs. I was completely impressed. I played some more fiddle music in the beautiful afternoon weather. After coffee, Johan started pulling off one of the walls of the stabbur - it's next on the repair list.
Since the bus into town left the bus stop a half hour drive away at 6:30, we had to get started on dinner pretty much immediately after afternoon coffee. We headed to the store and bought some additional kjøttkaker, as well as tomatost! Dinner was kjøttkaker with brown sauce, ertestuing, carrots and new potatoes - typical Norwegian food. While Anne made dinner, I made sandwiches to take on my journey. We listened to the Jonssonslinje CD I gave them; It made me think of home.
It was hard to leave Steinviknesset, but I made it in the car. Anne is a fabulous conversationalist and she managed to keep my mind on all of the exciting things that are coming in my future and didn't let me dwell on how much I would miss her and Johan and how much I already miss all of you in Seattle. At least Sonya's coming soon!
The bus ride took almost no time. There was a little excitement when the bus driver started to drive off before I had gotten my suitcase out of the bus, but he only got a few meters. At the Bodø train station I talked to my dad and Tom on the payphone, before I made my way out of the smelly waiting area and onto the uncomfortable train. I did manage to sleep, but I'm sure glad I'm not taking any exams today. I woke up outside of Trondheim, uncertain if I was more excited to get off the train or onto the internet.
After breakfast, I packed my bags again, so they would be ready in the afternoon. Before the day was over we had accomplished more than just a large pile of freshly split logs and packed suitcases, however. Anne made skoleboller to go with coffee while splitting logs. I was completely impressed. I played some more fiddle music in the beautiful afternoon weather. After coffee, Johan started pulling off one of the walls of the stabbur - it's next on the repair list.
Since the bus into town left the bus stop a half hour drive away at 6:30, we had to get started on dinner pretty much immediately after afternoon coffee. We headed to the store and bought some additional kjøttkaker, as well as tomatost! Dinner was kjøttkaker with brown sauce, ertestuing, carrots and new potatoes - typical Norwegian food. While Anne made dinner, I made sandwiches to take on my journey. We listened to the Jonssonslinje CD I gave them; It made me think of home.
It was hard to leave Steinviknesset, but I made it in the car. Anne is a fabulous conversationalist and she managed to keep my mind on all of the exciting things that are coming in my future and didn't let me dwell on how much I would miss her and Johan and how much I already miss all of you in Seattle. At least Sonya's coming soon!
The bus ride took almost no time. There was a little excitement when the bus driver started to drive off before I had gotten my suitcase out of the bus, but he only got a few meters. At the Bodø train station I talked to my dad and Tom on the payphone, before I made my way out of the smelly waiting area and onto the uncomfortable train. I did manage to sleep, but I'm sure glad I'm not taking any exams today. I woke up outside of Trondheim, uncertain if I was more excited to get off the train or onto the internet.
Gårdstur og kaffekveld
August 11, 2008
Anne took a break from sawing logs to show me around the buildings. I clearly have trouble counting to four; there are four buildings on the property, not three. Besides the house, there is the woodshed, the stabbur (formerly used for storing things like salted meat, now half renovated as an extra guest house for three), and the barn/dairy which hasn't seen much renovation, yet. They started working on the buildings ten years ago and now they've had the house fully upgraded for a year. Steinviknesset is everything you could want in an ancestral vacation home and more.
Once Anne finished for the evening, we set to work looking at her photos. Aided by a glass of wine and a cup of coffee each, we worked our way through their vacation and into mine. Before we knew it, it was dark here. As Johan put it, autumn is coming; as Anne put it, there will be another summer, but lots of skiing in the meantime. Tomorrow, I'll take the bus back to Bodø and then the train all the way to Hedmark where I'll be in Trysil and Hamar for the remaining days before school starts.
Anne took a break from sawing logs to show me around the buildings. I clearly have trouble counting to four; there are four buildings on the property, not three. Besides the house, there is the woodshed, the stabbur (formerly used for storing things like salted meat, now half renovated as an extra guest house for three), and the barn/dairy which hasn't seen much renovation, yet. They started working on the buildings ten years ago and now they've had the house fully upgraded for a year. Steinviknesset is everything you could want in an ancestral vacation home and more.
Once Anne finished for the evening, we set to work looking at her photos. Aided by a glass of wine and a cup of coffee each, we worked our way through their vacation and into mine. Before we knew it, it was dark here. As Johan put it, autumn is coming; as Anne put it, there will be another summer, but lots of skiing in the meantime. Tomorrow, I'll take the bus back to Bodø and then the train all the way to Hedmark where I'll be in Trysil and Hamar for the remaining days before school starts.
Fele og ve
August 11, 2008
Today was another slow start; Anne and I aren't really morning people and Johan knows better than to wait for us. After examining my bunad (and many fine words of praise for my wonderful mother who made it), Anne and I headed to the marina where the supermarket is. It is about the size of a small grocery store in the US and also contains a restaurant. They are still a little bit in shock that it exists. We got almost everything we needed (which really means we forgot a couple things).
Upon our return, we made coffee and chocolate muffins with walnuts. We sat out in the sun and filled ourselves full. Then, I played for Anne and Johan. It's not often that I get to play for such an appreciative audience. I remember while I was playing a tune I learned when they visited Seattle that it was when they came that I had started playing folkmusic. Has it really been only fourteen years? Am I old enough to say 'only fourteen years'? I am so happy with the path my life has taken and am honored to know and count as friends so many wonderful through folk dance and music.
Once the wind had blown the last notes out of my fiddle, we remembered that vacations at an old house are all relaxing. Today, we bagged last years' wood and chopped what had been cut earlier in the summer. Ok, so by chopped, I mean placed on the electric log-splitter. It still took most of the afternoon and involved bending over to pick up the logs from the pile. Anything is fun when you're doing it in good company, though. While Anne and I worked on splitting logs, Johan was thinning the woods around the house so they will have wood ready for next winter; the pile we were working on was for this year.
Dinner tonight was cauliflower au gratin. One of the ingredients we forgot at the store was the bullion, but we made it work and it was delicious. I highly recommend it, unless, of course, you don't like cauliflower. It is very simple to make. Just boil the cauliflower florets (imagine how much you'll want to eat for an entree, probably one very small head or half a large head). Drain the liquid off, but keep some (a couple quarts) for the sauce. Make a white sauce using butter, flour, milk, cream, bullion, and the stock from the cauliflower; add salt, pepper, and other spices to taste. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower in a baking dish and top with (lots of) grated cheese. Stick it in the oven at a reasonably high temperature until the cheese on the top turns to a golden brown color. Anne served it with garlic bread. I think this was a splendid side dish; we also had a salad.
Anne and Johan are outside now, sawing the freshly cut wood into pieces that will dry by next summer. I think I'll go keep them company.
Today was another slow start; Anne and I aren't really morning people and Johan knows better than to wait for us. After examining my bunad (and many fine words of praise for my wonderful mother who made it), Anne and I headed to the marina where the supermarket is. It is about the size of a small grocery store in the US and also contains a restaurant. They are still a little bit in shock that it exists. We got almost everything we needed (which really means we forgot a couple things).
Upon our return, we made coffee and chocolate muffins with walnuts. We sat out in the sun and filled ourselves full. Then, I played for Anne and Johan. It's not often that I get to play for such an appreciative audience. I remember while I was playing a tune I learned when they visited Seattle that it was when they came that I had started playing folkmusic. Has it really been only fourteen years? Am I old enough to say 'only fourteen years'? I am so happy with the path my life has taken and am honored to know and count as friends so many wonderful through folk dance and music.
Once the wind had blown the last notes out of my fiddle, we remembered that vacations at an old house are all relaxing. Today, we bagged last years' wood and chopped what had been cut earlier in the summer. Ok, so by chopped, I mean placed on the electric log-splitter. It still took most of the afternoon and involved bending over to pick up the logs from the pile. Anything is fun when you're doing it in good company, though. While Anne and I worked on splitting logs, Johan was thinning the woods around the house so they will have wood ready for next winter; the pile we were working on was for this year.
Dinner tonight was cauliflower au gratin. One of the ingredients we forgot at the store was the bullion, but we made it work and it was delicious. I highly recommend it, unless, of course, you don't like cauliflower. It is very simple to make. Just boil the cauliflower florets (imagine how much you'll want to eat for an entree, probably one very small head or half a large head). Drain the liquid off, but keep some (a couple quarts) for the sauce. Make a white sauce using butter, flour, milk, cream, bullion, and the stock from the cauliflower; add salt, pepper, and other spices to taste. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower in a baking dish and top with (lots of) grated cheese. Stick it in the oven at a reasonably high temperature until the cheese on the top turns to a golden brown color. Anne served it with garlic bread. I think this was a splendid side dish; we also had a salad.
Anne and Johan are outside now, sawing the freshly cut wood into pieces that will dry by next summer. I think I'll go keep them company.
August i Nordland postscript
August 10, 2008
I was so thrilled by the fishing trip, I forgot to say anything about the first half of the day! We began with a leisurely breakfast, followed by midday coffee. Here we had a small dilemma - there was no jam in the house! Not to worry, Anne had a plan. We head out to the current bushes (red and black, rips og solbær) and picked two cups full (an easy half liter of berries). Then I was set to the task of making the jam. I squashed the berries and added sugar. Num num It tasted great on the fresh waffles.
I also haven't said much about the house we are at. It has belonged to Johan's family at least since his grandfather lived here which is possibly when it was built. His mother's family lived in the house across the small inlet. On the property is the renovated house, woodshed, and stabbur. I think they also have a boathouse down by the water and, if I understand correctly, it has a Nordlandsboat inside that Johan takes out for competitions.
I was so thrilled by the fishing trip, I forgot to say anything about the first half of the day! We began with a leisurely breakfast, followed by midday coffee. Here we had a small dilemma - there was no jam in the house! Not to worry, Anne had a plan. We head out to the current bushes (red and black, rips og solbær) and picked two cups full (an easy half liter of berries). Then I was set to the task of making the jam. I squashed the berries and added sugar. Num num It tasted great on the fresh waffles.
I also haven't said much about the house we are at. It has belonged to Johan's family at least since his grandfather lived here which is possibly when it was built. His mother's family lived in the house across the small inlet. On the property is the renovated house, woodshed, and stabbur. I think they also have a boathouse down by the water and, if I understand correctly, it has a Nordlandsboat inside that Johan takes out for competitions.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
August i Nordland
August 10, 2008
I should start by saying a little about my hosts. Anne and Johan are some of the kindest, friendliest, most generous people I know. Our families met in 1994, the first time the Hambergs hosted guests from Norway for Seattle's annual gathering of Norwegian folk dancers. Anne and Johan stayed at our house with their two younger children (they have four) who are about the same ages as me and my sister. Since those fabulous weeks in July, we have visited them in Bodø at least six times. Now, they are part of our extended family.
Back to the story - I finally got to go fishing today! Johan caught two mackrel as soon as we dropped the line in the water. It was a good sign. Of course, three hours later when we still only had two mackrel on board it seemed like less of a good sign and more like a lucky break.
I'm sure that I won't be the first or the last to tell you that a fishing trip is only partly about catching fish. This summer has been full of wonderful things to do on a sunny afternoon, but few of them beat sitting in a boat fishing with beautiful mountains and islands on all sides and good friends for company. We fed the seagulls Ritz crackers and had a pretty good group (I'm guessing around 20 birds) following us from one spot to the next.
We had some excitement upon our return to the marina. First, the fish bucket escaped Johan's grasp as he was cleaning it out (don't worry, the fish were in the boat). Anne did some fancy maneuvering and we got it back. Then, there was some difficulty navigating the boat back into it's space, but it was nothing some good laughter couldn't fix.
Back on land, Anne prepared a feast, including the fresh mackrel on the grill. Besides the fish, the most notable part of dinner was the new potatoes (from the garden) and carrots, cooked on the barbecue with salt, pepper, onion, and olive oil in a foil boat. I adore that method of cooking potatoes and wish I did it more often. I also made a salad and was quite pleased with the results.
We had dessert by the fire, looking up at Sandhornfjell. Johan cooked the coffee over the fire and we rounded out the evening with some chocolate. Of course, in order to sit outside by the fire, we had to dress appropriately. I had been wearing jeans, a tank top, a t-shirt, a jacket, socks, and slip on shoes. It had been a little chilly at dinner, so when Anne handed me a ski suit, I swapped it for the jacket without too much protest. At the fire, Johan thought I needed something a little more substantial on my feet and ran back to the house; he returned with a pair of red ski boots. The complete costume was hilarious. I hope you enjoy the picture half as much as we enjoyed our evening.
I should start by saying a little about my hosts. Anne and Johan are some of the kindest, friendliest, most generous people I know. Our families met in 1994, the first time the Hambergs hosted guests from Norway for Seattle's annual gathering of Norwegian folk dancers. Anne and Johan stayed at our house with their two younger children (they have four) who are about the same ages as me and my sister. Since those fabulous weeks in July, we have visited them in Bodø at least six times. Now, they are part of our extended family.
Back to the story - I finally got to go fishing today! Johan caught two mackrel as soon as we dropped the line in the water. It was a good sign. Of course, three hours later when we still only had two mackrel on board it seemed like less of a good sign and more like a lucky break.
I'm sure that I won't be the first or the last to tell you that a fishing trip is only partly about catching fish. This summer has been full of wonderful things to do on a sunny afternoon, but few of them beat sitting in a boat fishing with beautiful mountains and islands on all sides and good friends for company. We fed the seagulls Ritz crackers and had a pretty good group (I'm guessing around 20 birds) following us from one spot to the next.
We had some excitement upon our return to the marina. First, the fish bucket escaped Johan's grasp as he was cleaning it out (don't worry, the fish were in the boat). Anne did some fancy maneuvering and we got it back. Then, there was some difficulty navigating the boat back into it's space, but it was nothing some good laughter couldn't fix.
Back on land, Anne prepared a feast, including the fresh mackrel on the grill. Besides the fish, the most notable part of dinner was the new potatoes (from the garden) and carrots, cooked on the barbecue with salt, pepper, onion, and olive oil in a foil boat. I adore that method of cooking potatoes and wish I did it more often. I also made a salad and was quite pleased with the results.
We had dessert by the fire, looking up at Sandhornfjell. Johan cooked the coffee over the fire and we rounded out the evening with some chocolate. Of course, in order to sit outside by the fire, we had to dress appropriately. I had been wearing jeans, a tank top, a t-shirt, a jacket, socks, and slip on shoes. It had been a little chilly at dinner, so when Anne handed me a ski suit, I swapped it for the jacket without too much protest. At the fire, Johan thought I needed something a little more substantial on my feet and ran back to the house; he returned with a pair of red ski boots. The complete costume was hilarious. I hope you enjoy the picture half as much as we enjoyed our evening.
Bodø III
August 9, 2008
We ate a leisurely breakfast before we headed into town. The big plan for the day was to head out to the cabin, but first we wanted to catch the free concert downtown. Operating under my go with the flow marching orders, I put on sunscreen and hopped in the car.
First was the youth concert. They featured a number of talented young adults, ranging from classical clarinet to under-enunciated, but well sung blues. They also played on a theme they have apparently been running through out the week of concerts of checking the temperature against the national weather service. We were five degrees (C) warmer - 15 instead of 10!
The day's sponsors were giving out free food. That's right, free food. There was coffee (of course) and pizza, grilled salmon and some kind of meat. First you have to understand that I haven't been speaking English unless I've called Seattle on the phone and also that it was pretty noisy in a crowd of several hundred people outside on a Saturday afternoon with a concert going on. Johan brought me a plate of delicious looking grilled meat with potato salad and asked if I'd ever had **kjøtt. I wasn't sure, but it looked good so I tried it. Tasty and a little gamey, I figured it was moose, but I wanted to be sure. I was going to ask once we got to a quieter place so I could report accurately what I had eaten, but I knew it would be awkward since they had said it several times at the concert. Fortunately, before going to bed, Anne said something about kvalkjøtt. For those of you who don't speak Norwegian, that's whale meat and it was good!
Now, back to the concert. We also heard Terje Nilssen, popular all over Norway and from the local area. The headliner, who came on after we'd been standing in the sun for two and a half hours, was Morten Abel. Rockin' pop music. Great summer tunes. If you're looking for something catchy to round out your summer music collection, look him up!
We made it home, packed our bags and piled into the car again. Anne and I passed out almost immediately while Johan drove. The scenery is so beautiful that I always wish I could stay awake in the car, but I never do. After about an hour we stopped for ice cream; my first Norwegian ice cream and I have to say - Norwegian ice cream is even better than Swedish ice cream! Another half hour of driving (I stayed awake this time) and we arrived at Steinviknesset in Gildeskål.
The house is beautiful inside and out. Anne and Johan worked on fixing it up every weekend for almost two years. Now it has all of the modern conveniences (except a dishwasher) and is absolutely perfect. We stayed up late (not that that counts as news anymore) looking at all of the photos on my computer and finally went to bed when the battery was about dead. Hopefully we'll go fishing tomorrow!
We ate a leisurely breakfast before we headed into town. The big plan for the day was to head out to the cabin, but first we wanted to catch the free concert downtown. Operating under my go with the flow marching orders, I put on sunscreen and hopped in the car.
First was the youth concert. They featured a number of talented young adults, ranging from classical clarinet to under-enunciated, but well sung blues. They also played on a theme they have apparently been running through out the week of concerts of checking the temperature against the national weather service. We were five degrees (C) warmer - 15 instead of 10!
The day's sponsors were giving out free food. That's right, free food. There was coffee (of course) and pizza, grilled salmon and some kind of meat. First you have to understand that I haven't been speaking English unless I've called Seattle on the phone and also that it was pretty noisy in a crowd of several hundred people outside on a Saturday afternoon with a concert going on. Johan brought me a plate of delicious looking grilled meat with potato salad and asked if I'd ever had **kjøtt. I wasn't sure, but it looked good so I tried it. Tasty and a little gamey, I figured it was moose, but I wanted to be sure. I was going to ask once we got to a quieter place so I could report accurately what I had eaten, but I knew it would be awkward since they had said it several times at the concert. Fortunately, before going to bed, Anne said something about kvalkjøtt. For those of you who don't speak Norwegian, that's whale meat and it was good!Now, back to the concert. We also heard Terje Nilssen, popular all over Norway and from the local area. The headliner, who came on after we'd been standing in the sun for two and a half hours, was Morten Abel. Rockin' pop music. Great summer tunes. If you're looking for something catchy to round out your summer music collection, look him up!
We made it home, packed our bags and piled into the car again. Anne and I passed out almost immediately while Johan drove. The scenery is so beautiful that I always wish I could stay awake in the car, but I never do. After about an hour we stopped for ice cream; my first Norwegian ice cream and I have to say - Norwegian ice cream is even better than Swedish ice cream! Another half hour of driving (I stayed awake this time) and we arrived at Steinviknesset in Gildeskål.
The house is beautiful inside and out. Anne and Johan worked on fixing it up every weekend for almost two years. Now it has all of the modern conveniences (except a dishwasher) and is absolutely perfect. We stayed up late (not that that counts as news anymore) looking at all of the photos on my computer and finally went to bed when the battery was about dead. Hopefully we'll go fishing tomorrow!
Nattkonsert
August 8, 2008
We followed our post dinner nap by watching the recap of the opening ceremony of the Olympics in Beijing on NRK. Then we put on all of the clothes we could find and headed to the night concert. The concert was scheduled to begin at 11:59 and it was already chilly outside. My jeans and cotton socks with a T-shirt and fleece were not going to cut it. I was given wool long underwear (top and bottom) and wool socks, plus and extra fleece; I also brought my purple scarf and fleece blanket from the train. It was close, but I stayed just above freezing the entire time.
We arrived at Skansen almost an hour before the concert started. We parked a brisk ten minute walk away, which got the blood moving. We settled in with friends and eventually were completely surrounded, like a flock of seagulls on a big rock. We were on a big rock after all. The concert started reasonably promptly featuring Norway's most famous trumpter and his band. By the end of the show, we were all rocking out.
We waited until the Hurtigrute pulled in to climb down from the historic site. Then we headed home. We had tea and fresh bread at 2:30 in the morning and went to bed. We had a big day waiting for us!
We followed our post dinner nap by watching the recap of the opening ceremony of the Olympics in Beijing on NRK. Then we put on all of the clothes we could find and headed to the night concert. The concert was scheduled to begin at 11:59 and it was already chilly outside. My jeans and cotton socks with a T-shirt and fleece were not going to cut it. I was given wool long underwear (top and bottom) and wool socks, plus and extra fleece; I also brought my purple scarf and fleece blanket from the train. It was close, but I stayed just above freezing the entire time.
We arrived at Skansen almost an hour before the concert started. We parked a brisk ten minute walk away, which got the blood moving. We settled in with friends and eventually were completely surrounded, like a flock of seagulls on a big rock. We were on a big rock after all. The concert started reasonably promptly featuring Norway's most famous trumpter and his band. By the end of the show, we were all rocking out.
We waited until the Hurtigrute pulled in to climb down from the historic site. Then we headed home. We had tea and fresh bread at 2:30 in the morning and went to bed. We had a big day waiting for us!
Bodø II
August 8, 2008
I should start at the beginning of the day. I did not pack after watching the movie (it was 1am). Instead, I got up at eight and started packing. Only two more times! I had breakfast with Roald and Oddhild and then we headed back to the boat. It was a very nice trip.
The boat (Hurtigbåten) arrived in Bodø a few minutes late at noon. I found my way to Anne's office and after a few joyful minutes of catching up, I left her with my bags to finish her work day. I headed out in search of wireless internet. I found it at Kafe Kafka. I managed to justify spending $25 on a greek salad by spending most of three hours sitting at a table using the internet.
Shortly after 3pm, I met Anne at her office again and we met Johan at the car. They work in adjacent buildings and carpool to work together. It's a pretty sweet set-up. We stopped at the grocery store on the way home. In Sweden, you can buy a six-pack of decent light beer for $7. In Norway, a single can of the cheapest beer costs just under $4. At least they're half liters!
Anne had decided to make bread. So, while she made dinner (I washed the potatoes), she also put together the dough. We all clean forgot about it while we ate and it rose out of the bowl and onto the counter. It was hilarious. The second and third times it rose it just barely made it out of the bowl and certainly didn't make it down the outsides. The next excitement came when we all fell asleep while the bread was in the oven and no one could remember exactly when it had gone in. The timer had been set but not started. Fortunately, I had taken a picture of the loaves when they were just put in the oven so we could use the time stamp on the camera to figure out that mystery. The result? Good laughs and amazing whole grain bread. So. Delicious.
I should start at the beginning of the day. I did not pack after watching the movie (it was 1am). Instead, I got up at eight and started packing. Only two more times! I had breakfast with Roald and Oddhild and then we headed back to the boat. It was a very nice trip.
The boat (Hurtigbåten) arrived in Bodø a few minutes late at noon. I found my way to Anne's office and after a few joyful minutes of catching up, I left her with my bags to finish her work day. I headed out in search of wireless internet. I found it at Kafe Kafka. I managed to justify spending $25 on a greek salad by spending most of three hours sitting at a table using the internet.
Shortly after 3pm, I met Anne at her office again and we met Johan at the car. They work in adjacent buildings and carpool to work together. It's a pretty sweet set-up. We stopped at the grocery store on the way home. In Sweden, you can buy a six-pack of decent light beer for $7. In Norway, a single can of the cheapest beer costs just under $4. At least they're half liters!
Anne had decided to make bread. So, while she made dinner (I washed the potatoes), she also put together the dough. We all clean forgot about it while we ate and it rose out of the bowl and onto the counter. It was hilarious. The second and third times it rose it just barely made it out of the bowl and certainly didn't make it down the outsides. The next excitement came when we all fell asleep while the bread was in the oven and no one could remember exactly when it had gone in. The timer had been set but not started. Fortunately, I had taken a picture of the loaves when they were just put in the oven so we could use the time stamp on the camera to figure out that mystery. The result? Good laughs and amazing whole grain bread. So. Delicious.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Ørnes IV
Today was a little overcast in the morning. I tried to practice outside, but really it was too cold. So, I read the newspaper instead.
Around noon we left for Glomfjord (roughly 17 kilometers away). Roald had a physical therapy appointment and afterward we went on a driving tour of the area at the end of the fjord. The scenery here is really impressive. Somehow, they have managed to cram factories, churches, schools, and homes onto the steep slopes of the mountains that drop into the fjord.
The sun came out in the afternoon, so I found time to play on the porch. My vitamin D intake has really improved since I arrived in Ørnes. Dinner tonight was homemade fishcakes. They were so good I got the recipe!
I rounded out the evening by watching a Swedish movie, reading the subtitles most of the time. I find that amusing. The movie was good; a drama involving several murders and some cyber-terrorism. It was called Brannmur in Norwegian (Brandvägg in Swedish) - Firewall.
Around noon we left for Glomfjord (roughly 17 kilometers away). Roald had a physical therapy appointment and afterward we went on a driving tour of the area at the end of the fjord. The scenery here is really impressive. Somehow, they have managed to cram factories, churches, schools, and homes onto the steep slopes of the mountains that drop into the fjord.
The sun came out in the afternoon, so I found time to play on the porch. My vitamin D intake has really improved since I arrived in Ørnes. Dinner tonight was homemade fishcakes. They were so good I got the recipe!
I rounded out the evening by watching a Swedish movie, reading the subtitles most of the time. I find that amusing. The movie was good; a drama involving several murders and some cyber-terrorism. It was called Brannmur in Norwegian (Brandvägg in Swedish) - Firewall.
Ørnes III
Yesterday was relaxing. Today was relaxed. Sonya and mom called in the morning; it was great to hear from them! It was early still, so I went back to sleep after a good chat with Mom.
After breakfast, I practiced out on the porch again. Harry, their youngest son, stopped by to say hello. We talked about who the next president will be, housing prices, and the cost of gasoline. He wished my good luck in my school adventures and then was off to the hytte for a few more days vacation before returning to work on the oil platforms.
The next order of business was to read the newspaper while Roald and Oddhild waxed their cars. Then I added labels to a couple hundred photos while they waxed their cars. Then I read the newspaper some more until middag while they waxed their cars. Today we had ertestuing and pølser i brunsaus (split green peas and sausages in brown sauce) with potatoes, of course.
After the post-meal nap, I read a second newspaper (the cars were almost completely waxed by this time). Then we had coffee and apple cake with vaniljesaus. We watched the news and some television. I called home and brushed my teeth.
After breakfast, I practiced out on the porch again. Harry, their youngest son, stopped by to say hello. We talked about who the next president will be, housing prices, and the cost of gasoline. He wished my good luck in my school adventures and then was off to the hytte for a few more days vacation before returning to work on the oil platforms.
The next order of business was to read the newspaper while Roald and Oddhild waxed their cars. Then I added labels to a couple hundred photos while they waxed their cars. Then I read the newspaper some more until middag while they waxed their cars. Today we had ertestuing and pølser i brunsaus (split green peas and sausages in brown sauce) with potatoes, of course.
After the post-meal nap, I read a second newspaper (the cars were almost completely waxed by this time). Then we had coffee and apple cake with vaniljesaus. We watched the news and some television. I called home and brushed my teeth.
Ørnes II
Yesterday, I mentioned laundry. I did not mention that while I have become accustomed to hand washing my clothes, it does not compare to getting all of your clothes clean (they were all dirty) at once without getting your hands wet. Hang them outside to dry? No problem! The sun will dry them all at once, too!
Today was the perfect example of how to enjoy life while on vacation. I got up around 9:30 and had breakfast before bringing in my dry clothes. I took a shower, got dressed, and practiced fiddle for at least an hour and a half. I shared my photos with Roald (I finally got them onto my computer!). I read the newspaper for a while. At three we had middag, which is often translated as dinner, but is usually served at 3, which is a long time after breakfast if there is no lunch in between, but not late enough to really be called dinner I think. Then we all rested - I slept until 5:30. More sitting on the porch, reading the newspaper, and labeling photos, interrupted at 7 by coffee and waffles (also not dinner). At about 9:30pm we had kveldsmat (evening food), which looks a lot like a typical Norwegian breakfast, just twelve hours later in the day. In between those things I made phone calls and chatted with Roald and Oddhild. Teeth brushed and in bed at 11:15.
Now, I will back track. Middag was fish balls. Fish balls in white sauce with curry powder on top, with carrots and potatoes. Oddhild hadn't made this fish balls herself, but she did make the sauce. Thanks to my previous experience with fish balls in Östersund, I had no trouble digging in to these without making that face I make when I'm trying new foods. i have to say, middag was phenomenal. Our Swedish fish balls from a can did not compare to fresh ones with a home made white sauce plus yellow potatoes and sweet carrots. Yum. For dessert we had gele with vaniljesaus. I'm not sure how to prepare a more Norwegian meal.
I've heard in the past that sleeping on a full stomach is not recommended because it can cause bad dreams. Perhaps that is why I dreamt that my family (mom, dad, sister, and myself) were filling in at a very popular and therefore busy lunch counter. I don't remember much of the details, but somehow Dad was at the cash register telling stories and the line of customers got longer and longer. By the time the owner returned, in the dream, Sonya and I were completely humiliated, the line of customers had wrapped around the corner and out the door, and Dad was oblivious. At least it was just a dream!
On my way to brush my teeth, I heard accordion music coming from downstairs. We had been listening to the radio earlier which always broadcasts a wide variety of music, generally including the Cardigans (today's hit For what it's worth, I love you). This sounded a little closer though. So I grabbed my camera in addition to my toothbrush and floss. Good thing, too! Roald was playing on his accordion, something I've never seen him do before. At the risk of repeating myself, it was a perfect end to a perfect day.
Today was the perfect example of how to enjoy life while on vacation. I got up around 9:30 and had breakfast before bringing in my dry clothes. I took a shower, got dressed, and practiced fiddle for at least an hour and a half. I shared my photos with Roald (I finally got them onto my computer!). I read the newspaper for a while. At three we had middag, which is often translated as dinner, but is usually served at 3, which is a long time after breakfast if there is no lunch in between, but not late enough to really be called dinner I think. Then we all rested - I slept until 5:30. More sitting on the porch, reading the newspaper, and labeling photos, interrupted at 7 by coffee and waffles (also not dinner). At about 9:30pm we had kveldsmat (evening food), which looks a lot like a typical Norwegian breakfast, just twelve hours later in the day. In between those things I made phone calls and chatted with Roald and Oddhild. Teeth brushed and in bed at 11:15.
Now, I will back track. Middag was fish balls. Fish balls in white sauce with curry powder on top, with carrots and potatoes. Oddhild hadn't made this fish balls herself, but she did make the sauce. Thanks to my previous experience with fish balls in Östersund, I had no trouble digging in to these without making that face I make when I'm trying new foods. i have to say, middag was phenomenal. Our Swedish fish balls from a can did not compare to fresh ones with a home made white sauce plus yellow potatoes and sweet carrots. Yum. For dessert we had gele with vaniljesaus. I'm not sure how to prepare a more Norwegian meal.
I've heard in the past that sleeping on a full stomach is not recommended because it can cause bad dreams. Perhaps that is why I dreamt that my family (mom, dad, sister, and myself) were filling in at a very popular and therefore busy lunch counter. I don't remember much of the details, but somehow Dad was at the cash register telling stories and the line of customers got longer and longer. By the time the owner returned, in the dream, Sonya and I were completely humiliated, the line of customers had wrapped around the corner and out the door, and Dad was oblivious. At least it was just a dream!
On my way to brush my teeth, I heard accordion music coming from downstairs. We had been listening to the radio earlier which always broadcasts a wide variety of music, generally including the Cardigans (today's hit For what it's worth, I love you). This sounded a little closer though. So I grabbed my camera in addition to my toothbrush and floss. Good thing, too! Roald was playing on his accordion, something I've never seen him do before. At the risk of repeating myself, it was a perfect end to a perfect day.
Ørnes I
Things change slowly in Ørnes, but they do change. The young cousins grow up. The older cousins have children. There's a bedroom off the entry now, so Roald and Oddhild don't have to climb the stairs anymore. Roald also has an automated lawn-mower; it randomly cuts the grass and returns to it's docking station to recharge every day. He is in love.
Some things don't change. Roald, my grandfather's first cousin, and his wife Oddhild met me at the ferry. They look just like they did when I first met them. (Could that have been 14 years ago? Geez, time flies!) They carried my bags to the car; this time it's an Audi. After stopping at the grocery store, we made it up the familiar drive to their house.
I was sent upstairs to put my things in one of the guest bedrooms. Since I'm the only guest right now, I get the best guest room. When I came down, we had waffles and coffee on the back porch. We talked about people we knew and how everyone is doing. We drank more coffee. Una (one of the now-grown-up young cousins) dropped by. Over the years it has become clear that she is a very frequent visitor at her grandparents' house; she tends to show up in the early evening and Roald and Oddhild always seem happy to see her.
We exchanged gifts. I got a pair of hand made (by Oddhild) pot-holders. I gave them a linen dish-cloth with a pattern of fishing cottages from Hudiksvall.
We talked about family. The women outlive the men. Roald thinks my great-grandmother (his aunt) Olga visited Norway just after the end of the war in late 1945 or early 1946. I'd never heard that. Arthritis runs deep in the family.
I don't know whether or not it's a blessing or a curse to be a night owl, but this is also, clearly, a family trait. Only here would an 'early evening' consist of a light meal at 10:15 before hanging out the laundry. The sun goes down around 10, but when we all headed to bed at 11 it was still light out.
Some things don't change. Roald, my grandfather's first cousin, and his wife Oddhild met me at the ferry. They look just like they did when I first met them. (Could that have been 14 years ago? Geez, time flies!) They carried my bags to the car; this time it's an Audi. After stopping at the grocery store, we made it up the familiar drive to their house.
I was sent upstairs to put my things in one of the guest bedrooms. Since I'm the only guest right now, I get the best guest room. When I came down, we had waffles and coffee on the back porch. We talked about people we knew and how everyone is doing. We drank more coffee. Una (one of the now-grown-up young cousins) dropped by. Over the years it has become clear that she is a very frequent visitor at her grandparents' house; she tends to show up in the early evening and Roald and Oddhild always seem happy to see her.
We exchanged gifts. I got a pair of hand made (by Oddhild) pot-holders. I gave them a linen dish-cloth with a pattern of fishing cottages from Hudiksvall.
We talked about family. The women outlive the men. Roald thinks my great-grandmother (his aunt) Olga visited Norway just after the end of the war in late 1945 or early 1946. I'd never heard that. Arthritis runs deep in the family.
I don't know whether or not it's a blessing or a curse to be a night owl, but this is also, clearly, a family trait. Only here would an 'early evening' consist of a light meal at 10:15 before hanging out the laundry. The sun goes down around 10, but when we all headed to bed at 11 it was still light out.
Bodø I
After a quick diversion to the wrong boat terminal, I left my luggage at the train station and headed into town. I found the tourist office, conveniently located at the correct boat terminal (which is right where it has always been). I bought my tickets to Ørnes and decided to hit the library and get some food.
I went for food first. Then I got to the library and fulfilled my internet needs for the time being. Then I got coffee, checked out cell phone plans and made two important phone calls.
The first to Tom and Elaine to let them know I was still alive and had made it this far. They were also still alive and had made it back to Hudiksvall; in fact, they were on the obligatory library run! It was nice to hear cheerful voices.
The second phone call was brief, but very important! I had tried to call Ørnes several times in the past few days with no answer. I got through and let them know I was still coming today. They'll meet me at the pier. Phew!
I collected my luggage and headed for the boat. In the waiting area I called Dad. It was early in Seattle, but I think he was happy to hear from me. Now, it's boarding time.
I went for food first. Then I got to the library and fulfilled my internet needs for the time being. Then I got coffee, checked out cell phone plans and made two important phone calls.
The first to Tom and Elaine to let them know I was still alive and had made it this far. They were also still alive and had made it back to Hudiksvall; in fact, they were on the obligatory library run! It was nice to hear cheerful voices.
The second phone call was brief, but very important! I had tried to call Ørnes several times in the past few days with no answer. I got through and let them know I was still coming today. They'll meet me at the pier. Phew!
I collected my luggage and headed for the boat. In the waiting area I called Dad. It was early in Seattle, but I think he was happy to hear from me. Now, it's boarding time.
Trondheim
A long time ago, I came to Norway with my mother and sister. We had a layover in the Trondheim train station and we wound up eating some yogurt. Actually, I wound up wearing it. So, it always seems like I should buy some when I'm in the Trondheim train station.
The train left a little late because we had to wait for another late train from Oslo. I was backwards again, but this time the seat was a 'hvilestol' or resting chair. It reclined, had a foot rest, and came with an overnight pack. The goodies included earplugs, a smallish fleece-type blanket, a sleep mask, and an inflatable travel pillow! I am totally impressed with that travel pillow. It did take a fair amount of maneuvering to get all of my luggage to fit in the space available, but I did it.
Fortunately, the Swedish girls sitting across from and behind me didn't feel the need to sing all night long, and most of us were asleep just outside of Trondheim. I woke up once or twice to adjust my pillows, but for the most part I slept pretty well. And I woke up to the gorgeous sunshine of Nordland in the summer. There is no light like this light; it lifts even the lowest spirits.
The train left a little late because we had to wait for another late train from Oslo. I was backwards again, but this time the seat was a 'hvilestol' or resting chair. It reclined, had a foot rest, and came with an overnight pack. The goodies included earplugs, a smallish fleece-type blanket, a sleep mask, and an inflatable travel pillow! I am totally impressed with that travel pillow. It did take a fair amount of maneuvering to get all of my luggage to fit in the space available, but I did it.
Fortunately, the Swedish girls sitting across from and behind me didn't feel the need to sing all night long, and most of us were asleep just outside of Trondheim. I woke up once or twice to adjust my pillows, but for the most part I slept pretty well. And I woke up to the gorgeous sunshine of Nordland in the summer. There is no light like this light; it lifts even the lowest spirits.
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Awards Ceremony
I don't like to count my chickens before they hatch. I didn't know if I would be getting a medal today or not. Expectations lead to disappointment, so I can just do my best all of the time and hope that it turns out well.
Brons medal recipients are called up first. It was a little confusing what order they were called in. I heard the names of people who danced after me. Then, I heard the names of people who danced before me. I was giving myself a pep talk that it would be ok if I hadn't passed. Afterall, I had a fabulous time, and I've been telling everyone I was here to have fun. I clearly had fun.
Then they called my name. There is no way to express in words how happy and relieved I was! I got a big hug from Bengt Wittgren when he handed me my medal and another one from P-O when he gave me my certificate. I made it back off the floor before looking at my diplom.
Let me explain. They put adjectives on the certificates. The adjectives describe how you danced and there is a lot of value placed on what words are written there. They range from 'good' to 'exciting'. I got musikalisk och följsamt - musical and following (women tend to get that, it's a compliment). I am very happy with my adjectives. My medal is safe with Tom and my certificate is safe with Elaine.
I said a teary goodbye at the train station. I grabbed a seat and thought of how much fun I'd had, how I'd miss everyone, and what an adventure I was setting out on. I looked through all of the pictures on my camera. I cried as I headed to Norway, facing Sweden, with a heavy heart. I'll miss you, and see you soon. The train to Bodø is waiting for me now. I'll be up north in the morning!
Update: If you squint really hard, you can see me leaving the floor, clutching my diplom in the picture!
Brons medal recipients are called up first. It was a little confusing what order they were called in. I heard the names of people who danced after me. Then, I heard the names of people who danced before me. I was giving myself a pep talk that it would be ok if I hadn't passed. Afterall, I had a fabulous time, and I've been telling everyone I was here to have fun. I clearly had fun.
Then they called my name. There is no way to express in words how happy and relieved I was! I got a big hug from Bengt Wittgren when he handed me my medal and another one from P-O when he gave me my certificate. I made it back off the floor before looking at my diplom.
Let me explain. They put adjectives on the certificates. The adjectives describe how you danced and there is a lot of value placed on what words are written there. They range from 'good' to 'exciting'. I got musikalisk och följsamt - musical and following (women tend to get that, it's a compliment). I am very happy with my adjectives. My medal is safe with Tom and my certificate is safe with Elaine.I said a teary goodbye at the train station. I grabbed a seat and thought of how much fun I'd had, how I'd miss everyone, and what an adventure I was setting out on. I looked through all of the pictures on my camera. I cried as I headed to Norway, facing Sweden, with a heavy heart. I'll miss you, and see you soon. The train to Bodø is waiting for me now. I'll be up north in the morning!
Update: If you squint really hard, you can see me leaving the floor, clutching my diplom in the picture!
Östersund III
At the end of the day of dancing, Tom and I took a walk to the grocery store. It was good to get some non-dancing excercise to burn off some adrenaline. Also, it gave us the opportunity to talk about how things had gone. I had also started thinking about my upcoming departure, so it was nice to have company.
We got back to the cabin and made meatballs. There's nothing particularly special about frozen meatballs and boiled potatoes. Add some light beer and good company, though and they are the perfect end to a long day, not to mention months of training. Elaine joined us just as the meatballs were ready. She had had dinner with Harry and Roo, but those meatballs are pretty tempting.
We tried taking a little nap, but that didn't last very long for any of us. We each took off on our own to the evening program. It turned out to be a sort of dance themed variety show, with an emphasis on generations. It was interesting, and made me feel like I had really chosen the correct dance form! I love folkdance!
The evening dance was played by the Russindalspelmannslag. That is, the Raisin Vally fiddlers. They gave themselves that name because of the wrinkles on their faces! I'm not joking. They were a really excellent gammaldans band and they did get a ton of people dancing who were not part of the daytime events. That floor was packed! I had a fabulous time. I danced with good dancers and I think we all enjoyed it. Seattle girls don't know what waiting to be asked to dance is until they've been to a dance in Scandinavia. Stop complaining, you've got it good!
Earlier, I had asked Tom to do the last dance with me. At 11:27 he ran out and said 'Ingrid, this could be it!' So we danced. He taught me one of the diplom dances on the fly. I didn't do it right, but it was a happy ending to the day. But then, the day wasn't over.
A couple of musicians took the floor and about ten couples, including me and Tom stuck around. The rumor was that they were from the group Nätt och Jämt. It was beautiful dancing. And then we walked back and told jokes with the DC crowd. Perfect. Just perfect.
We got back to the cabin and made meatballs. There's nothing particularly special about frozen meatballs and boiled potatoes. Add some light beer and good company, though and they are the perfect end to a long day, not to mention months of training. Elaine joined us just as the meatballs were ready. She had had dinner with Harry and Roo, but those meatballs are pretty tempting.We tried taking a little nap, but that didn't last very long for any of us. We each took off on our own to the evening program. It turned out to be a sort of dance themed variety show, with an emphasis on generations. It was interesting, and made me feel like I had really chosen the correct dance form! I love folkdance!
The evening dance was played by the Russindalspelmannslag. That is, the Raisin Vally fiddlers. They gave themselves that name because of the wrinkles on their faces! I'm not joking. They were a really excellent gammaldans band and they did get a ton of people dancing who were not part of the daytime events. That floor was packed! I had a fabulous time. I danced with good dancers and I think we all enjoyed it. Seattle girls don't know what waiting to be asked to dance is until they've been to a dance in Scandinavia. Stop complaining, you've got it good!
Earlier, I had asked Tom to do the last dance with me. At 11:27 he ran out and said 'Ingrid, this could be it!' So we danced. He taught me one of the diplom dances on the fly. I didn't do it right, but it was a happy ending to the day. But then, the day wasn't over.
A couple of musicians took the floor and about ten couples, including me and Tom stuck around. The rumor was that they were from the group Nätt och Jämt. It was beautiful dancing. And then we walked back and told jokes with the DC crowd. Perfect. Just perfect.
Tevling
Tom danced with both Elaine and me today. Based on my experience, that is a lot of pressure. He seems to have handled it well.
We all got up, dressed, and out the door before the coffee break. We have been waking up earlier, but three people in a small space trying to cram themselves into folk dress takes a little longer. We weren't in a hurry either.
Tom and Elaine danced just before lunch. They had time to warm up in the practice room to the other diplom dancers and watch some of our friends dancing before they went on stage. Then, with yellow armbands proudly displayed, they stepped onto the dance floor in the only group of five couples dancing diplom. They did a lovely job, but I have to confess that I was focused on taking pictures of them dancing and didn't actually watch them dance.
We ate lunch and then, as Tom put it, it was all about me. We took some horrible turns in the warm up room, remembered to smile, and headed out to the gauntlet. The dancers before us came off, and the very entertaining MC called our names. There is always huge applause for bronze dancers, but it was especially comforting to hear it after my name. I had started shaking as soon as we walked onto the floor.
We had a plan: Face the judges and the musicians, but not the audience. Smile. Relax. Stop shaking! We danced and it was wonderful, but terrifying. All I remember is thinking 'listen to the music' and 'smile'. Somehow (ask Tom) we stuck to the edges of the floor. We were smooth when we needed to be smooth, bouncy when we needed to bounce, our hands were in the right places at the right time. We danced three times through the Lillhärdal, Tom tells me we made it exactly once around the floor each time.
When we were finished, I could hardly breath. In my application I had written that my mother made my bunad, so the MC called me up to show off all of mom's beautiful embroidery. I couldn't think straight my heart was racing so fast. We'd done it!
We headed back out the way we came, but this time it wasn't a gauntlet. It was a crush of friendly faces. Friends from Högs Gille and Furudal, friends from the US and Swedes I've met elsewhere. I've never heard so many kind words in such a short time! I could only hope the judges felt the same way. Later, I was looking down from the balcony and Leif looked up, caught my eye, and gave me a thumbs up. It's reassuring when the coach pats you on the back, even if it's from across the room.
We all got up, dressed, and out the door before the coffee break. We have been waking up earlier, but three people in a small space trying to cram themselves into folk dress takes a little longer. We weren't in a hurry either.
Tom and Elaine danced just before lunch. They had time to warm up in the practice room to the other diplom dancers and watch some of our friends dancing before they went on stage. Then, with yellow armbands proudly displayed, they stepped onto the dance floor in the only group of five couples dancing diplom. They did a lovely job, but I have to confess that I was focused on taking pictures of them dancing and didn't actually watch them dance.
We ate lunch and then, as Tom put it, it was all about me. We took some horrible turns in the warm up room, remembered to smile, and headed out to the gauntlet. The dancers before us came off, and the very entertaining MC called our names. There is always huge applause for bronze dancers, but it was especially comforting to hear it after my name. I had started shaking as soon as we walked onto the floor.
We had a plan: Face the judges and the musicians, but not the audience. Smile. Relax. Stop shaking! We danced and it was wonderful, but terrifying. All I remember is thinking 'listen to the music' and 'smile'. Somehow (ask Tom) we stuck to the edges of the floor. We were smooth when we needed to be smooth, bouncy when we needed to bounce, our hands were in the right places at the right time. We danced three times through the Lillhärdal, Tom tells me we made it exactly once around the floor each time.
When we were finished, I could hardly breath. In my application I had written that my mother made my bunad, so the MC called me up to show off all of mom's beautiful embroidery. I couldn't think straight my heart was racing so fast. We'd done it!
We headed back out the way we came, but this time it wasn't a gauntlet. It was a crush of friendly faces. Friends from Högs Gille and Furudal, friends from the US and Swedes I've met elsewhere. I've never heard so many kind words in such a short time! I could only hope the judges felt the same way. Later, I was looking down from the balcony and Leif looked up, caught my eye, and gave me a thumbs up. It's reassuring when the coach pats you on the back, even if it's from across the room.
Östersund II
The fish balls were great. They were even great the next day. My eating habits on Friday were, however, terrible. I didn't really eat breakfast. There wasn't really time after my turn in the bathroom since the dancing had already started. I also didn't eat lunch. Martha had shared a sandwich with me at the coffee break, and by the time dinner rolled around again, I devoured the remaining fish balls without blinking.
We watched a wide variety of dancing on Friday. From friends to strangers to everything in between, all of the dancers tried their hardest. Some of them were really amazing, some barely met the criteria, and some will be holding their thumbs (the Swedish equivalent of crossing fingers) until Sunday when the awards are given. I enjoyed taking pictures of the dancing - it's not easy! Martha danced on Friday afternoon and things seemed to have gone well.
Tom, Elaine, and I headed off to the grocery store after the dancing. My plan was to get money out of the ATM. In retrospect, I think I used the wrong machine, but regardless, I wasn't able to get any money. This combined with not eating all day and dancing for the judges on Saturday, did not put me in the mood for dancing on Friday night. So, I didn't go.
Not going to the dance was clearly the right choice. It took me nearly an hour just to iron my bunad. Oy! By the time everyone was back from the dance, I was feeling a little more settled. Tom and I shared a few beers and unwound; it was exactly what I needed to prepare myself for the big day.
We watched a wide variety of dancing on Friday. From friends to strangers to everything in between, all of the dancers tried their hardest. Some of them were really amazing, some barely met the criteria, and some will be holding their thumbs (the Swedish equivalent of crossing fingers) until Sunday when the awards are given. I enjoyed taking pictures of the dancing - it's not easy! Martha danced on Friday afternoon and things seemed to have gone well.
Tom, Elaine, and I headed off to the grocery store after the dancing. My plan was to get money out of the ATM. In retrospect, I think I used the wrong machine, but regardless, I wasn't able to get any money. This combined with not eating all day and dancing for the judges on Saturday, did not put me in the mood for dancing on Friday night. So, I didn't go.
Not going to the dance was clearly the right choice. It took me nearly an hour just to iron my bunad. Oy! By the time everyone was back from the dance, I was feeling a little more settled. Tom and I shared a few beers and unwound; it was exactly what I needed to prepare myself for the big day.
Östersund I
Back at the campground, the social scene had continued in full swing. Many people had taken a full day dance course and adjourned to a party in one of the cabins. In attendance were several Americans, the most influential dancers in Sweden, and the cutest puppy I've seen on this trip. I think his name was Issa and he spent the entire time I was there passed out on the floor not moving.
Tonight was the first evening dance as well, so the party wrapped up around 8:15. We (Tom, Elaine, Martha and I) arrived fashionably late and in good company. The music was excellent, as was the dancing. It's possible that I did less than ten dances, but I felt out the floor and had a good time. Did I mention the music was great?
After the dance, Tom and I raided our stores of food. We came up with onions and potatoes cooked with fish balls from a can, with some milk and bullion to stretch it. I have been writing and haven't tried it yet, but Elaine reports that it is tasty. If it's anything but tasty, I will report back with some additional adjectives!
Tonight was the first evening dance as well, so the party wrapped up around 8:15. We (Tom, Elaine, Martha and I) arrived fashionably late and in good company. The music was excellent, as was the dancing. It's possible that I did less than ten dances, but I felt out the floor and had a good time. Did I mention the music was great?
After the dance, Tom and I raided our stores of food. We came up with onions and potatoes cooked with fish balls from a can, with some milk and bullion to stretch it. I have been writing and haven't tried it yet, but Elaine reports that it is tasty. If it's anything but tasty, I will report back with some additional adjectives!
Föllinge dagan
We arrived at our campground apartment. I unloaded my stuff, grabbed my fiddle and backpack and headed back toward the reception. Martha was waiting for me and we had a special treat coming our way.
First we walked to Vicki's cousin's apartment. Ester is very kindly letting Martha stay there for the weekend. We drank some water and lay on the floor, trying to cool off. At a quarter past nine, Martha called Mats Andersson. He had a meeting in town and he and his wife, Karin, were on their way to pick us up. We had been invited to spend the evening and the next day at their house!
We met them around the corner from Ester's apartment. Somehow, we managed to fit our instruments and overnight bags into the vehicle. We piled in and headed North to Föllinge.
The Anderssons live in a house that is just large enough for a family of seven. The five children range in age from almost 6 to 14. The two girls are the oldest. They have several chickens and a few rabbits. Right now. There was a horse for a while. One of the chickens is sitting on 13 eggs. Elise and Carolina tell us that they should hatch any day now. Mats is not so sure.
When we arrived, all of the children were still awake. We had some food and beer. I met the children (Elise, Caroline, Pär, Anders, and Olle). We talked for a while. When it was approaching midnight we were directed to the beds we would be using. I haven't sleep that soundly in a long time.
After breakfast, the fiddles came out. Something just feels right about sitting around an established fiddler's kitchen table, playing a few tunes, while his wonderful children dart in and out of the picture. We couldn't play too long though, we had a lunch date with the children. At the lake!
Again, everyone (except Karin and Olle) piled into the car. Martha says we headed east to the lake; I'll take her word for it. It took two trips in the row boat (motor powered) out to the sandbar to get everyone and everything there, but we made it. The weather was perfect. Hardly a cloud in the sky with a good breeze moving through.
Everybody swam. The water ranged from quite cold to just a little cold depending on where you went in, but it all felt great! Anders taught me how to skip rocks. Martha got a fishing lesson from Mats, no fish though. Mats used Scandinavia's greatest invention, the Engångsgrill (single use bbq grill that is perfect for just about anything), to cook us a delicious lunch of hamburgers and chicken sausages.
We managed to tear ourselves away from the beach before we got too fried. Two boat trips and a car ride later we were back at the house. I got a tour of the animals from Elise. I snuck up to the sewing room for a quick look at the dräkt Karin is working on right now. Then, back into the car and back to Östersund.
I am extremely grateful that I was included in the trip to Föllinge. I can't imagine a nicer way to have spent today! The whole Andersson family is great. I hope that I get to see them again some day, somewhere.
First we walked to Vicki's cousin's apartment. Ester is very kindly letting Martha stay there for the weekend. We drank some water and lay on the floor, trying to cool off. At a quarter past nine, Martha called Mats Andersson. He had a meeting in town and he and his wife, Karin, were on their way to pick us up. We had been invited to spend the evening and the next day at their house!
We met them around the corner from Ester's apartment. Somehow, we managed to fit our instruments and overnight bags into the vehicle. We piled in and headed North to Föllinge.
The Anderssons live in a house that is just large enough for a family of seven. The five children range in age from almost 6 to 14. The two girls are the oldest. They have several chickens and a few rabbits. Right now. There was a horse for a while. One of the chickens is sitting on 13 eggs. Elise and Carolina tell us that they should hatch any day now. Mats is not so sure.
When we arrived, all of the children were still awake. We had some food and beer. I met the children (Elise, Caroline, Pär, Anders, and Olle). We talked for a while. When it was approaching midnight we were directed to the beds we would be using. I haven't sleep that soundly in a long time.
After breakfast, the fiddles came out. Something just feels right about sitting around an established fiddler's kitchen table, playing a few tunes, while his wonderful children dart in and out of the picture. We couldn't play too long though, we had a lunch date with the children. At the lake!
Again, everyone (except Karin and Olle) piled into the car. Martha says we headed east to the lake; I'll take her word for it. It took two trips in the row boat (motor powered) out to the sandbar to get everyone and everything there, but we made it. The weather was perfect. Hardly a cloud in the sky with a good breeze moving through.
Everybody swam. The water ranged from quite cold to just a little cold depending on where you went in, but it all felt great! Anders taught me how to skip rocks. Martha got a fishing lesson from Mats, no fish though. Mats used Scandinavia's greatest invention, the Engångsgrill (single use bbq grill that is perfect for just about anything), to cook us a delicious lunch of hamburgers and chicken sausages.
We managed to tear ourselves away from the beach before we got too fried. Two boat trips and a car ride later we were back at the house. I got a tour of the animals from Elise. I snuck up to the sewing room for a quick look at the dräkt Karin is working on right now. Then, back into the car and back to Östersund.
I am extremely grateful that I was included in the trip to Föllinge. I can't imagine a nicer way to have spent today! The whole Andersson family is great. I hope that I get to see them again some day, somewhere.
Lodjur
The plan was to have Elaine and I drive most of the way to Östersund, or at least divide the drive into thirds. After all, that was the point of our driving lessons. Shortly after leaving Furudal, Tom took a left onto the road we would follow most of the way to Östersund. He pulled over and it was Elaine's turn. She did a great job! Smooth, no surprises, the only exciting thing (traffic wise) was a couple of ditch clearing tractors that took up most of the left hand side of the road. Oh! and she got to pass another driver.
Then it was my turn, when we reached Kårbölle. I managed to get the car into gear (on the fourth try, but it was up a hill) and maneuvered through the left turn that was on the travel plan. Less than a quarter mile after that turn we saw what looked like a dog on the side of the road. It stepped up to the road, looked both ways, and loped across in front of us. Not to worry, I hit the brakes, not the lynx. Yep, we saw a lynx running across the road! So. Cool.
Does anyone know what lynxes eat? I'm guessing house cats, but there must be more on the menu than that.
I drove until about forty-five minutes outside of Östersund. We stopped for a much need grocery store and bathroom break. Tom took over driving and we managed to find the camp ground. It was very well labelled which was a good thing, since we didn't have a local map or directions!
Then it was my turn, when we reached Kårbölle. I managed to get the car into gear (on the fourth try, but it was up a hill) and maneuvered through the left turn that was on the travel plan. Less than a quarter mile after that turn we saw what looked like a dog on the side of the road. It stepped up to the road, looked both ways, and loped across in front of us. Not to worry, I hit the brakes, not the lynx. Yep, we saw a lynx running across the road! So. Cool.
Does anyone know what lynxes eat? I'm guessing house cats, but there must be more on the menu than that.
I drove until about forty-five minutes outside of Östersund. We stopped for a much need grocery store and bathroom break. Tom took over driving and we managed to find the camp ground. It was very well labelled which was a good thing, since we didn't have a local map or directions!
Farewell to Furudal
Let's start with saying I have a love/hate relationship with goodbye's. It won't surprise many of you to know that I love to feel like I belong somewhere, and sometimes it takes leaving that place for me to fully recognize that I belong. That said, It hurts that much more to take an instant of belonging and compare it with an uncertain future without the support of my cherished friends. The last night at Furudal was one of those goodbye's.
The campfire was crowded. More people came than had been there all week. We grilled hot dogs until there weren't any left to grill. C-G and Brita made pancakes, served with jam they made with berries picked in the Furudal woods. Everything was delicious. Have you ever tried to make pancakes at a campfire? It didn't look easy, but it sure tasted good!
Eventually, Martha broke down and started in on the evenings musical entertainment. She played for a while with some others and eventually it got down to her and Chris. I knew I would join them eventually, but I was enjoying the feeling of being surrounded by friends; wrapped in their warmth I felt safe and clear-headed.
Suddenly, there was a cry from the crowd! It was time for fattigman. Martha had asked earlier if I knew anything about fattigman and I had replied, 'Yes, It's a Norwegian cookie.' Of course, even I can be wrong sometimes. This fattigman was a highly entertaining children's game/song led by C-G and Brita (have I mentioned that I think they're awesome?).
Once the rich man became poor, we all sat around the fire again, and I arrived at that eventually from above, joining Martha and Chris with my fiddle. We played some great tunes. We played them at a blistering, undanceable speed, but they were hot! We even took requests from some of the locals who came down to the fire to join us. (Three young men!)
We played until the mosquitoes were winning and then turned in for the night. In the morning each group of dancers got one more round of classes. We washed our last bits of laundry (in the direct Swedish sun, it hangs dry in about two hours), presented our dances, and crammed everything back into the suitcases. We were on our way to Östersund!
The campfire was crowded. More people came than had been there all week. We grilled hot dogs until there weren't any left to grill. C-G and Brita made pancakes, served with jam they made with berries picked in the Furudal woods. Everything was delicious. Have you ever tried to make pancakes at a campfire? It didn't look easy, but it sure tasted good!
Eventually, Martha broke down and started in on the evenings musical entertainment. She played for a while with some others and eventually it got down to her and Chris. I knew I would join them eventually, but I was enjoying the feeling of being surrounded by friends; wrapped in their warmth I felt safe and clear-headed.
Suddenly, there was a cry from the crowd! It was time for fattigman. Martha had asked earlier if I knew anything about fattigman and I had replied, 'Yes, It's a Norwegian cookie.' Of course, even I can be wrong sometimes. This fattigman was a highly entertaining children's game/song led by C-G and Brita (have I mentioned that I think they're awesome?).
Once the rich man became poor, we all sat around the fire again, and I arrived at that eventually from above, joining Martha and Chris with my fiddle. We played some great tunes. We played them at a blistering, undanceable speed, but they were hot! We even took requests from some of the locals who came down to the fire to join us. (Three young men!)
We played until the mosquitoes were winning and then turned in for the night. In the morning each group of dancers got one more round of classes. We washed our last bits of laundry (in the direct Swedish sun, it hangs dry in about two hours), presented our dances, and crammed everything back into the suitcases. We were on our way to Östersund!
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